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Attuned to subtle seasonal changes, Kyoto cuisine emphasizes freshness and contrast. From the finest ryotei (high-class Japanese restaurants) to the smallest izakaya (pub), the distinctive elements of gracious hospitality, subtle flavors, and attention to decor create an experience that engages all the senses. Both elaborate establishments and casual shops usually offer set menus at lunchtime, at a considerably lower price than at dinner. Although the finest traditional kaiseki ryori (the elaborate, multicourse meal) is often costly, this experience is highly recommended at least once during your visit to Japan.
If you find yourself with an unintelligible menu, ask for the o-makase, or chef's recommendation and you can specify your budget in some instances. The custom of dining early, from 6 pm until 8 pm, still endures in very traditional restaurants, but many restaurants are open until 10 or 11 pm. If possible, let the hotel staff make reservations for you. For more formal restaurants try to book at least two days in advance; bookings are often not accepted for the following day if called in after 4 pm. Keep in mind that not all restaurants accept credit cards.
Nestled among the backstreets of northwest Kyoto, Tozentei emphasizes to-the-letter traditional Japanese cooking. The meals here, made with only local produce, are old-school enough to please a shogun. A wooden wall with a low gate fronts this intimate hideaway that fits only 12. Lunch is less pricey than dinner.
Enjoy fine traditional fare inside this distinctive red and wooden-latticed machiya-style townhouse in the heart of Gion. If you snag one of the counter seats, then the chefs prepare everything right in front of you. Dishes comprise high-quality fresh and seasonal local produce, so that means ingredients such as bamboo shoots in the spring, ayu (a succulent and small freshwater fish) in early summer, and matsutake mushrooms in the fall. The mini-kaiseki lunch costs less than half the price of dinner.
Along one of the centuries-old exit roads from the city into the mountains, this roadside inn is beloved for its multicourse kaiseki ryori dinners, duck hot pots, boar stew, and boxed lunches with mountain potatoes and barley rice. There were seven roads that led out of the city, and wayside inns such as Yamabana Heihachi-Jaya provided travelers with food and respite before the long trek ahead. On the bank of the Takano River, it is one of the more picturesque examples.
Adjacent to an inn of the same name, Yoshikawa serves multicourse kaiseki ryori lunches and dinners. The beautifully presented meal includes soup, vegetables, grilled or baked fish, and a light, crisp tempura that is the house specialty. Roasted duck is available for those who don't eat raw fish. Tempura dinners include 13 pieces of fried fish, meat, and vegetables. A special shabu-shabu set is offered to hotel guests, and a visit by a maiko or geiko can be arranged by the hotel staff. The establishment boasts a breathtaking Enshu-style landscaped garden that greatly complements this truly elegant experience.
Amid Arashiyama's lush bamboo forests, this quiet retreat offers a fine example of hot-pot tofu yudofu cooking. The set meal includes delicacies such as abura-age (fried tofu with black sesame seeds), tempura vegetables and shrimp, and Kyoto's famous Morita tofu. The service is leisurely and elegant, and most tables have garden views. Both floor and chair seating are available. The owner is an enthusiast of the bamboo shakuhachi flute. Its dulcet tones accompany meals.
A Taisho-era kimono business office and home was meticulously renovated into this restaurant whose Chinese cuisine is prepared as though it were Japanese. The streetside former office is furnished with Chinese tables and chairs and tatami rooms with low tables and cushion seating; some of the areas have views of the well-groomed inner-courtyard garden. The restaurant derives its name from the wall in the bar displaying ornate pocchiri clasps used by maiko-san as decoration on the front of their obi (kimono sashes). Lunch is a Japanese-style bento box but with Chinese food. Dinner may be tofu dishes, chicken stews, and delicately flavored sea bream. For ¥11,000 you can order a meal inspired by Imperial Court cuisine, featuring savory Peking duck and seasonal delicacies such as spiny lobster and crab stew.
