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A new wave of culinary confidence has been running through one of the world's great food cities and spilling over both banks of the Seine. Whether cooking up grand-mère's roast chicken and riz au lait or placing a whimsical hat of cotton candy atop wild-strawberry-and-rose ice cream, Paris chefs—established and up-and-coming, native and foreign—have been breaking free from the tyranny of tradition and following their passion.
Emblematic of the "bistronomy" movement is the proliferation of "gastrobistros"—often in far-flung or newly chic neighborhoods—helmed by established chefs fleeing the constraints of the star system or passionate young chefs unfettered by overblown expectations. Among the seasoned stars and exciting newcomers to the scene are Yannick Alléno, who left behind two Michelin stars at Le Meurice to open his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brogniart and earned three stars at the storied Pavillon Ledoyen within his first year at the helm; David Toutain at the exceptional Restaurant David Toutain; Sylvestre Wahid at Brasserie Thoumieux; and Katsuaki Okiyama's Abri.
But self-expression is not the only driving force behind the current trend. A traditional high-end restaurant can be prohibitively expensive to operate. As a result, more casual bistros and cafés, which reflect the growing allure of less formal dining and often have lower operating costs and higher profit margins, have become attractive opportunities for even top chefs.
For tourists, this development can only be good news, because it makes the cooking of geniuses such as Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Eric Frechon, and Pierre Gagnaire a bit more accessible (even if these star chefs rarely cook in their lower-price restaurants) and opens up a vast range of new possibilities for exciting dining.
Like the chefs themselves, Paris diners are breaking away from tradition with renewed enthusiasm. New restaurants, wine bars, and rapidly multiplying épicieries (gourmet grocers) and sandwich shops recognize that not everyone wants a three-course blowout every time they dine out. And because Parisians are more widely traveled than in the past, many ethnic restaurants—notably the best North African, Vietnamese–Laotian, Chinese, Spanish, and Japanese spots—are making fewer concessions to French tastes, resulting in far better food.
This Japanese-inspired minichain of coffeehouses is the place to be seen during Paris Fashion Week. There are four locations in Paris: one at 208 rue de Rivoli, one at 2 pl. André Malraux with a full restaurant menu, one at 30 rue du Vertbois that also serves as a roastery, and this one—the original and persistent favorite, thanks in large part to the views over the Palais Royal gardens.
A trailblazer on the Paris gastro-coffee scene, out-of-the-way Café Lomi first supplied expertly roasted single-origin coffees to the first wave of barista cafés and top restaurants. Now Lomi's industrial-chic loft is equal parts roaster, café, workshop, and pilgrimage stop for hard-core coffee lovers, serving a range of splendid brews along with cookies, cakes, and other confections.
Run by the Costes family, this café overlooking the main courtyard of the Louvre and its famous glass pyramid is a stylish place to meet for a drink or a coffee, whether in the chic, jewel-toned dining rooms or on the Louvre's long, sheltered terrace. Regular café service shuts down during meal times, when fashion-conscious folks dig into classic bistro fare like steak tartare or duck foie gras with a handful of lighter offerings like quinoa with avocado and pomeranate or vegetarian pasta with a slightly spiced tomato-basil sauce.
You may be tempted to call it a sandwich stand, but for Parisians it's more of a pilgrimage point at the beloved Marché des Enfants-Rouges. Alain's inspired creations burst with organic vegetables (raw or roasted), artisanal cheeses, locally cured ham, roast chicken, or pastrami, among other gourmet fillings, lodged between slices of bread, a buckwheat galette, or a socca (a Provençale flatbread made with chickpea flour). Each day brings fresh surprises on the blackboard menu, all to be enjoyed at the market's outdoor seating or at a nearby park.
A lofty space between the Musée Rodin and the Bon Marché makes this the perfect pit stop. Look for healthy salads, sandwiches, snacks, desserts, and a delicious cup of any kind of coffee drink that takes your fancy. The meticulously sourced beans are freshly and lovingly roasted on the premises.
In a city where we all scream for ice cream (and wine), thank goodness for Folderol, where delicious handmade ice creams in flavors like nectarine hibiscus, jasmine-blood orange, spicy watermelon, pecan pie, or chocolate wedding cake are savored like the natural wines you can sip by the glass or bottle along with a plate of fine charcuterie and other small plates.
This place is irreverent in every way except about what goes into the product. From the flours to the chocolates, everything is meticulously sourced for the team's “food porn,” pastries that delight every sense, whether it's the chocolate and pistachio babka, almond croissants, praline brioches, fudge brownies, or “cruffins,” a melt-in-your-mouth croissant-style brioche dusted with cocoa or sugar.
One of Paris's first bento-box cafés (it's also a Japanese grocer), this cozy spot on storied Rue Ste-Anne offers an array of delicious eats, from smoked eel and grilled salmon to crispy chicken, fried tofu, and yummy veggie sides like marinated seaweed—a house specialty—and sesame spinach. For a meal on the go, this is the place. It's small, cafeteria-style, and no-frills, and crowds can snake down the block, so get there by noon for lunch. Bento boxes are also great to go.
Set at a leafy crossroads on the lively Rue des Martyrs, this is a top pick in this vibrant neighborhood for a quick stop or to linger with a device. The coffee (roasted at their atelier-café Back in Black) is always good, as are the many other beverage options, both hot and cold, and the food—from healthy salads and sandwiches to yummy pastries—is exactly what's needed to get you revved up for your next Paris adventure.
For one of the cheapest, tastiest meals in Paris, look no further than the fantastic falafel stands on the pedestrian Rue de Rosiers, where L'As (the Ace) is widely considered the best of the bunch, with lunchtime lines that extend down the street. A falafel sandwich costs €7 to go or €9 in the dining room, and it's heaping with grilled eggplant, cabbage, hummus, tahini, and hot sauce. The shawarma (grilled, skewered meat) sandwich, made with chicken or lamb, is also one of the finest in town. Although takeout is popular, it can be fun (and not as messy) to eat off a plastic plate in one of the two frenzied dining rooms. Fresh lemonade is the falafel's best match.
Sip tea (or lusciously thick hot chocolate) and sample tasty cakes at this atmospheric salon.
Housed in a former train station, this restaurant-lounge is frequented by business types and chic youth alike. Sit on the large terrace or descend the wide staircase to a room bathed in natural light by day and warm golden tones at night. Reasonable lunchtime set menus feature traditional and inventive French cuisine.
The terrace of this corner café, opened in 1902, is a favorite haunt of local gallery owners and Beaux-Arts students. Open every day from 8 am to 2 am, it is ideal for a morning coffee or afternoon drink. Light fare is available throughout the day. If there's a line, walk a few paces up Rue Jacques Caillot to Le Bistrot Mazarin, which has good café options and a comfortable outdoor terrace.
A second home to foreign artists and political exiles in the 1920s and 1930s, La Rotonde has a less exotic but still faithful clientele today. It's a very pleasant place to have coffee or a meal on the sunny terrace. For a quieter, smoke-free atmosphere, head inside for a traditional French dining experience in the plush, red decor.
This calm café-brasserie on busy Rue de Rivoli is a local favorite with an extensive wine list. Though the food is nothing to write home about, its authentic brasserie atmosphere and inexpensive wines by the glass from every region of France make it a great place for a quick pick-me-up or an apéro on the go. It's open late, too.
Regulars grumble about the uneven cooking at Le Balzar, but they continue to come back because they can't resist the waiters' wry humor and the dining room's amazing people-watching possibilities. The restaurant attracts politicians, writers, tourists, and local eccentrics—and remains one of the city's classic brasseries: the perfect stop before or after a film in a local art-house cinema. Don't expect miracles from the kitchen, but stick to evergreens like snails in garlic butter, onion soup, traditional choucroute with sautéed potatoes, and baba au rhum for dessert.
Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this small, Art Deco restaurant gets booked up early for its satisfying menu of traditional French cuisine. Favorites include classics like rib steak with potato puree and grilled salmon. Reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lines and brisk service. Camdeborde also has three local tapas bars, two right next door (L'Avant Comptoir de la Mer and de la Terre) and a much larger one (L'Avant Comptoir du Marché) around the corner at the Marché St-Germain, where delicious small plates, good wine, and a festive atmosphere are guaranteed.
With its Art Nouveau decor, friendly waitstaff, and menu of fresh bistro food, this is the perfect place for a drink or meal after visiting the nearby Montparnasse Cemetery.
The plush chestnut-and-cream decor of this café is the work of one of Givenchy's nephews. Cocktails are classy, there's a good variety of beer on tap, and the food (brasserie fare such as steaks, fish, and frites) is tasty. In the evening, candlelight makes everyone look even more glamorous.
From a wine-soaked boeuf bourguignon and garlicky snails to tasty slabs of homemade country pâté served with cornichons and a hearty red, this Art Nouveau–era bistro offers all the classics of southwestern France. Check the blackboard menu for the daily specials, delivered in generous portions.
This lively café in the heart of the Left Bank theater district specializes in meats, wines, and cheeses from the Auvergne region of France, famous for its prize beef cattle. If you don’t want meat but love cheese and mashed potatoes, try the aligot, a hearty recipe of potato puree, melted cheese, cream, and garlic.
What used to be a rare bookshop has been carefully reinvented into a coffee shop and gourmet deli serving casual fare like an egg and salmon breakfast, lactose-free dishes and pastries, and mixed veggie salads. The vintage hand-painted storefront and tile floors have been preserved and make the space utterly charming; these are the details that make people fall in love with Paris. There is a children's menu and a large choice of homemade desserts.
This photo op–ready corner café draws a quirky mix of hipsters, artists, and discriminating tourists. The food is good and includes classics like steak tartare and escargots from Burgundy. For a weekday lunch, check the ardoise (slate blackboard) for the daily special. If you're craving a taste of home, the excellent cheeseburger comes with a heap of crispy fries.
Wondering where locals drink their coffee on touristy Île St-Louis? Try this old-time café that also features a menu of classic French dishes—it's open until 2 am daily.
Legendary performers and artists, including the likes of Isadora Duncan and Hart Crane, used to hang out here, and now it's a popular place for a coffee, glass of wine, or well-made cocktail. Stay for lunch or dinner and enjoy the brasserie menu, where the signature salade niçoise is outstanding and the classic French onion soup hits the spot. It may not be as hip as the equally historic cafés in St-Germain-des-Prés, but Le Select is a low-key way of soaking in the Left Bank historic café scene without the hubbub.
If you're young—or young at heart—come here to hang with the Sorbonne crowd at this bustling brasserie on a shaded pedestrian lane. It's steps from campus and also near Le Jardin du Luxembourg.
All of Paris seems to collide at this lively corner café in the heart of the Marais, where you'll find pretty much whatever is your pleasure any time of the day or night. Slide into a red banquette, or take a seat on the wide wraparound terrace to watch the world go by while indulging in generous servings of all the French classics, a glass of wine, or coffee and dessert.
Pastry chef Myriam Sabeta’s carved out a whole new niche in French sweets with her creations influenced by her childhood in Aleppo, Syria. Her signature “nids” are based on kadaïf, the buttery angel hair pastries of the Levant, which Sabet fills with cream and dried or candied fruit in original flavors such as Damascus rose, chocolate-sumac, or lemon-cardamom. Her ambrosial baklavas may be layered with Piedmont hazelnuts and lemon or Iranian pistachio and orange blossom.
Once you're done with the Louvre, this little sandwich stand adjacent to the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel is probably the closest spot to snag something to restore you. Classic French sandwiches like ham-and-butter or tuna salad are served on fluffy baguettes reminiscent of ciabatta. They're joined by quiches, a handful of salads, and desserts.
Part of a stylish new chain proliferating around Paris, this sleek café inhabits the entrance of a formerly run-down historic passage couvert on the picturesque, and newly chic, Rue Richer—home of the Folies Bergère. Coffee lovers can enjoy their cuppa (or matcha, chai, and so forth) from velvet banquettes or high up on a balcony overlooking the soaring, light-filled space with a views down Rue Saulnier.
