2 Best Hotels in Letterfrack, Connemara and County Mayo

A lake at its front door, the Atlantic Ocean at the back, and the mountains of Connemara as a backdrop form the enthralling setting for this hotel 8 km (5 miles) north of Letterfrack, home to the Long Room, one of the most eminently civilized salons in Ireland—Arts and Crafts–style polished wood, original art, and red geraniums. Once the retreat of that noted Irish man of letters, Oliver St. John Gogarty of Dublin (on whom James Joyce modeled Buck Mulligan in Ulysses), Renvyle is rustic and informal; it has exposed beams and brickwork, and numerous open turf fires. Ireland's poet--president, Michael D. Higgins continues the literary tradition by taking his annual break here. Chef Tim O'Sullivan is outstanding and deservedly a local celebrity, with his own cookbook and artisanal food line. The comfortable guest rooms, plainly decorated in an uncluttered style, in shades of beige and cream, all have breathtaking views.

This pink, creeper-clad, two-story Georgian house occupies 30 lovely acres and has a jaw-dropping view: a gorgeous lawn backdropped by Ballinakill Bay and the dreamy mountains of Connemara. Inside, the grandfather clock in the hall flanked by framed family portraits and hunting prints sets the informal, country-house tone. The Conservatory Bar is an elegant, light-filled spot with rattan bucket chairs and octagonal marble and cast-iron tables, while the drawing room is decorated in low-key shades. Well-used antiques, four-poster or large brass bedsteads, and sumptuous drapes decorate the solidly comfortable and impeccably kept bedrooms. The best rooms are at the front on the first floor, overlooking the bay. At dinner in the superb restaurant, Killary lobster with seasonal leaves and lemon herb butter is one of the tastiest entrées.