Santa Caterina a Formiello
With museum-worthy paintings and sculptures, this church is a must-see. The Formiello in the name refers to the formali, the nearby underground aqueduct, which, according to history, the Aragonese also used to capture the town. The church and its dark piperno stone was designed for the Dominicans by the Tuscan architect Romolo Balsimelli, a student of Brunelleschi.
The side chapels are as interesting for their relics as they are for their art. In the Orsini chapel are the elaborately framed remains of Vincent Martyr and other Dominican saints, while the fourth chapel displays some 20 martyrs' skulls that were brought to Naples by King Alfonso in 1490 after the 1480 Ottoman sack of Otranto, during which 813 Christians were executed for refusing to renounce their faith. This event is depicted in the rather surrealistic altar painting of the beheading of Antonio Primaldo, whose decapitated body, through the strength of faith, stands upright to confound his Ottoman executioner.
In the fifth chapel, a cycle of paintings by Giacomo del Po shows the life and afterlife of St. Catherine, while in the vault Luigi Garzi depicts the same saint in glory. Up in the faded dome, painted by Paolo di Mattei, Catherine and the Madonna implore the Trinity to watch over the city.