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Lisbon's dining scene has evolved dramatically in recent years to include any number of high-end dining opportunities, but amid the international fare, Michelin-starred restaurants, and molecular gastronomy, the city's simplest and most traditional restaurants still do a roaring trade. Meals generally include three courses, a drink, and coffee. Many restaurants have an ementa turistica (tourist menu), a set-price meal, most often served at lunchtime. Note that you'll be charged a couple of euros if you eat any of the couvert items—typically appetizers such as bread and butter, olives, and the like—that are brought to your table without being ordered.
Lisbon's restaurants usually serve lunch from noon or 12:30 until 3 and dinner from 7:30 until 11; many establishments are closed Sunday or Monday. Inexpensive restaurants typically don't accept reservations. In the traditional cervejarias (beer-hall restaurants), which frequently have huge dining rooms, you'll probably have to wait for a table, but usually not more than 10 minutes. In the Bairro Alto, many of the reasonably priced tascas (taverns) are on the small side: if you can't grab a table, you're probably better off moving on to the next place. Throughout Lisbon, dress for meals is usually casual, but exceptions are noted below.
Chef Marlene Vieira is one of the few female chefs at the forefront of Lisbon’s fine dining scene. At Zunzum she has a more relaxed approach, but still with cutting-edge dishes like Portuguese stew gyozas or cockle fritters in bulhão pato, a garlicky white wine and coriander sauce.
Chef Vitor Matos has managed restaurants all over the country, but this is his first venture in the capital to win a Michelin star. Here he is joined by Francisco Quintas, the young chef who welcomes you at the 14-seat counter facing the kitchen. Every dish is assembled right in front of you with the utmost detail, and the menu changes daily.
A range of authentic Japanese dishes are served at this local branch of an established Tokyo brand, but ramen is the real star. The noodles here—made fresh in-house—are lighter than some other types, thanks to the use of yuzu. As well as the range of flavorful (and generously sized) ramen bowls, there's a range of small plates, from fried soft-shell crab to pork buns, various dumplings, and even gluten-free noodles.
Imaginative small plates are the main attraction at this small seafood-focused spot, which has now expanded to a second branch in the foodie neighborhood of Campo de Ourique. The ceviche is hugely popular at both branches, and for good reason. There's even a fish-free version made with tofu.
In the charmingly old-fashioned dining room at one of Lisbon's oldest restaurants, bottles are displayed like works of art, and courteous staffers serve up Portuguese classics paired with one of the wine list's 600 choices.
Henrique Sá Pessoa is one of Portugal’s leading chefs, known for blending Portuguese tradition with global influences and ultra-modern culinary techniques. At his elegant flagship, Alma—one of the few restaurants in Portugal with two Michelin stars—he showcases precision, creativity, and top-quality produce.
Take a seat beneath twisting grapevines for drinks and snacks at one of the most inviting terraces in Alfama. The menu is strong on fresh ingredients and healthier versions of fast-food favorites, prepared with care. There are vegetarian and gluten-free versions of many of the most popular items on the menu, including hemp fried chicken (the veggie version is made with cauliflower) and a signature burger served in bolo do caco (a sweet-potato bread hailing from Madeira).
The name means "that place that doesn't exist" in Portuguese, and that's a clue (along with its lack of online presence) that this restaurant aims to have an insider, underground vibe. However, it does exist, and the main restaurant is a stylish room with that serves an eclectic menu of Indian dishes, pizza, and soup. Across the street, at number 76A, there's an even less promoted rooftop bar.
The intimate, dimly lit space and musical backdrop of tinkling jazz make a memorable setting for savoring a glass of wine, while sampling delicious and inexpensive versions of traditional Portuguese food. Standouts on the menu include a tasty bacalhau à brás (codfish mixed with egg and matchstick potatoes) and a photo-worthy flaming chorizo. As you'd expect, the wine list is good. Bring cash, as international cards are not accepted.
This rustic restaurant was established in a former bakery and has kept the building's original large brick baking oven and stone arches. It serves well-presented classic Portuguese cuisine and a few original dishes from a menu evenly divided between meat and fish options.
This riverfront restaurant draws crowds for its excellent views and refined cuisine. The mint green chairs of Atira-te ao Rio are easy to spot, and the octopus with roasted potatoes is always a winner.
Meco's most famous restaurant draws seafood fans from across the region. The freshly caught sea bass, swordfish, and huge variety of crustaceans are part of the appeal, but the setting in front of wild windswept Praia do Meco adds to the charm.
With its stone walls, vintage furniture, and broken-in leather chairs and couches, this restaurant feels like someone's living room. The menu hopscotches around Europe, with Spanish-style padrón peppers, Italian-inflected pasta dishes, salads, and Portuguese classics.
Mushrooms are the star of the show at this stylish, low-lit new eatery in Santos. While the menu includes a few fish and meat plates, most of the dishes are vegetarian or vegan, spotlighting enoki, lamb's foot, portobello, porcini, and the restaurant's namesake black truffle mushrooms. The combinations are varied and interesting, ranging from Japanese chawanmushi custard to Italian-style gnocchi and pasta.
This restaurant takes you on a trip around Asia, with a wide selection of dishes that go from Thailand to Indonesia. There are also vegan and gluten-free options. The restaurant takes no reservations, so show up early or expect a long wait for a table outside on the terrace or in the colorful interior.
Virtually everyone in the kitchen at this new-ish restaurant in Santos is from Mexico, making Boca Linda a more authentic alternative to some of the trendier taco joints sprouting up around town. The guacamole comes with chapulines (grasshoppers), the green aguachile is properly spicy, and the tacos come with fillings like cochinita pibil (suckling pig) and barbacoa (slow-cooked meat).
Known as a wild child among the relentlessly traditional neighborhood dining spots, you'll hear indie rock instead of fado at Boi-Cavalo and experience a menu that features unusual Portuguese products like mackerel with pickles and green beans–rice with pine nuts. The chef uses his kitchen as a lab for experiments with these oddball products, pairing them with Asian and other international influences. The short creative tasting menu changes weekly.
In an alley between Praça dos Restauradores and Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, this eatery known locally as Rei dos Frangos (King of Chickens) specializes in spit-roasted chicken served with a house-made piri-piri sauce that many locals swear is the best in the city. One chicken easily serves two hungry diners, leaving room for the famously crispy fries.
This restaurant—a glassed-in wooden cabana built in the sand dunes—has a laid-back beach vibe with white-washed interiors, colorful deck chairs, and swinging hammocks. The menu is strong on daily fish specials, with sandwiches and salads on offer, too.
This French-accented restaurant brings a big dose of old-school glamour to a neighborhood increasingly populated with Instagrammable brunch spots and sharable small plates. The kitchen occupies the center of the dining room, surrounded by a gleaming bar counter where patrons can dine and watch the show; alternatively, diners can tuck themselves away on red-velvet banquettes to dig into classic dishes like sole meunière and steak à la Marrare, a century-old Lisbon classic brought by a Neapolitan chef.
Cabrinha has been doing a roaring business among locals and out-of-towners since 1978. Crustaceans of all kinds are priced by weight, while steaks, grilled fish, and the famous seafood stew will satisfy a hearty appetite without blowing the budget.
The distinctive 1930s facade and tables right on Rossio square make Nicola a memorable spot for a coffee or bite to eat while sightseeing. Breakfasts and brunches here are good, with lots of eggs, meaty sausages, and strong Nicola-brand coffee (or fresh fruit and juices, should you prefer). They also serve simple traditional mains. Inside, the statue of 19th-century poet Manuel Maria Barbosa du Bocage and oil paintings by Fernando Santos depicting his rambunctious life, add to the atmosphere.
The tables outside this long-established haven are the perfect place to watch the old trams go by, while an interior reading room offers a quiet space to relax with a book and a snack or meal (the two-course set lunches are a good value at €15). Less touristy than some other cafés nearby, it still attracts artists from the neighboring theaters who stop for a drink.
Situated on one of Mouraria's prettiest squares, Café O Corvo is a great place to recharge after a day of wandering the area's hilly streets. There are outdoor tables under shady trees, friendly staff, and a menu that includes brunch, burgers, sandwiches, and snacks.
The Portuguese take their canned fish seriously. Find out what the fuss is about at this funky restaurant where canned goods turn up in all manner of petiscos (small plates)—it sounds gimmicky, but the results are delicious. Recently, in partnership with academics, they started producing and using garum, a . But don't worry, they also offer traditional mains such as baked codfish or octopus, and pasta, salads, and hamburgers.
This industrial-chic former factory canteen now makes good use of original features (such as a wood-fired oven) to feed the culture seekers who flock to this part of town. It's right in the middle of LxFactory, and the hearty Portuguese dishes will fuel a day's shopping or a night's socializing in the surrounding bars.
This laid-back, friendly spot in the São Bento district, just outside the Barrio Alto, is a local reference point for Goan cuisine. Vindaloo dishes are among the stars, and vegetarians have plenty of options alongside the meat and seafood dishes.
Just as the 90-seat dining room sits below a vaulted brick ceiling that dates from the 18th century, many of the dishes are based on archival recipes. As the name suggests, the emphasis is on bacalhau (salted codfish), which is served in 25 different ways, ranging from the typical à Brás (with eggs and potatoes) to curried cod with asparagus risotto. A few meat, octopus, and vegetarian options are included for those who aren't fans of the fish.
In business for nearly a century, "The House of the Little Birds" is a favorite for neighborhood locals and nearby office workers. Come for the house specialties, which include the famous naco na pedra (steak cooked on a hot stone), vitela barrosã (tender veal), and açorda de gambas (shrimp and bread stew).
One of the first truly Italian restaurants in Lisbon is still one of the best. On the menu are the Italian owner's favorite dishes, including meat, fish, and pasta options.
