South of the River

It’s a little more than a mile from Lisbon to the South Bank but with just two bridges and a handful of ferry connections, it feels like another world.

Those willing to make the short hop over the Tagus River to the Margem Sul will be rewarded with miles of wild golden beaches, unspoiled nature, lush vineyards, long wine-soaked seafood lunches, and a more relaxed pace.

Colorful Cacilhas has long drawn locals to its many marisqueiras (seafood restaurants), while tourists flock to the Insta-famous Ponto Final, with its enchanting view of Lisbon and months-long reservations list. A free elevator takes those with a creative appetite up to Casa Cerca, a contemporary art center with a café terrace offering the same splendid Lisbon panoramas.

If you want some of Europe’s best beaches, head straight for Costa da Caparica, where the sands grow ever more untouched—and unfortunately harder to reach by public transport—the further south you go. But for the romance of being transported from busy downtown Lisbon to a quaint seafood-heavy Portuguese village in under 10 minutes, you can’t beat the ferry.

Most of this coast is best reached by car or motorcycle. The same can be said for the truly spectacular secluded beaches of Parque Natural da Arrábida, the wine-growing areas of Azeitão, and the pretty beach town of Sesimbra.

Join a guided day trip, or take yourself to Setúbal for Portugal’s best fresh fish market. Venture into Arrábida for a seafood lunch overlooking crystal clear turquoise waters framed by wild green hills. Cross the hills to Azeitão, where you can visit an artisanal azulejo workshop, taste the gooey local sheep’s cheese or sweet tortas de azeitão, and sample wines at historic estates.

Further afield, a 9th-century Moorish castle looms above the palm-fringed Sesimbra, a relaxed seaside town with pretty, historic streets, calm waters perfect for swimming, and a reputation for fresh fish. Admire an outdoor gallery of sea-themed murals while you enjoy a gelato and stroll along the oceanfront.