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A 19th-century dictum, "I sleeps where I dines," still holds true in Wales, where good hotels and good restaurants often go together. Castles, country mansions, and even disused railway stations are being transformed into interesting hotels and restaurants. Traditional inns with low, beamed ceilings, wood paneling, and fireplaces are often the most appealing places to stay. The best ones tend to be off the beaten track. Cardiff and Swansea have some large chain hotels, and, for luxury, some excellent spas have cropped up in the countryside. An added bonus is that prices are generally lower than they are for equivalent properties in the Cotswolds, Scotland, or southeast England.
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This town house, a hop and a skip from the Wales Millennium Centre in Cardiff Bay, bucks the trend in a city where big, modern hotels are usually a safer bet than boutique lodgings. The rooms aren't huge but make good use of the space; No. 5 has a seafaring theme in keeping with the hotel's history (it was originally a captain's house). All have large, comfortable beds and generously sized tubs in the bathrooms.
Hosts Ian and Gwawr Mowatt are charmingly adept at making their guests feel at home in this former Victorian artists' colony. Today the polished slate floors, high ceilings, and classic color schemes exude charm and country-house sophistication. Bedrooms are bright and spacious, with beamed ceilings, claw-foot tubs, and spectacular views across the valley. There's a cozy guest lounge with a fireplace, and the traditional Welsh breakfasts are excellent. There's also a self-catering studio if you're looking for even more privacy (prices start at around £300 for three nights in summer). The house is about 1 mile south of Betws-y-Coed.
This luxurious Victorian house has panoramic views over Betws-y-Coed. Built in the 1870s, the bed-and-breakfast successfully combines period features and contemporary style. The bedrooms are well equipped and the owners are extremely hospitable. Aberconwy House is usually a 10-minute walk from the center of Betws-y-Coed, but current renovations to the path mean that guests should allow 25 minutes to get there via an alternate route.
In Caernarfon's historic center, this whitewashed inn dating from the 16th-century has loads of character and a popular restaurant. Rooms at the original inn are crammed with original features (one has a four-poster bed) but larger and brighter accommodations are available in the 19th-century extensions. The traditional British restaurant menu, starring the likes of pies, steak, and fish, uses local produce when possible for its dishes.
Carefully restored in period style as a guesthouse, this former Victorian home (pronounced haylog, which means "sunny bank") is nestled at the foot of the Berwyn Mountains. Stone fireplaces and an oak staircase are original elements of this 1861 house. Bedrooms are bright and reasonably spacious with modern furnishings. Hosts Diane and Peter Crocker are full of advice on local walking routes and beauty spots.
This immaculate, impeccably run Victorian hotel is traditional in style, but has a contemporary edge. Bedrooms are decent-size, with color schemes of gray, raspberry, or vanilla. Those at the rear of the building have lovely views of the woods or the garden. Fresh flowers and plush period furnishings add charm to the public areas.
A friendly welcome awaits at this cozy 17th-century farmhouse 2 miles outside Llandrindod. Surrounded by 300 acres of countryside, the delightful Nixon family's home is decorated in classic country-house style with warm, rustic tones and exposed stone walls.
This former coach house in the center of Brecon has been converted into a luxurious place to stay, and the friendly hosts—a wealth of information about the local area—can arrange transport to and from the best walking paths in the Beacons. Rooms are named after Welsh historical figures; Brychan, the suite, has a rolltop bath plus robes and slippers. Inventive Welsh breakfasts, such as scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and laverbread, are served in the bright dining room; there are also several options for vegans and vegetarians.
This cozy, traditional B&B in the center of Llanberis sticks to its old-fashioned Welsh roots, and that's precisely the appeal. The house was built in the 1860s, and the decor is avowedly traditional—from the Victorian-style entrance hall to the comfortable and spotlessly clean bedrooms. They serve delicious cooked breakfasts, too; try the salmon with scrambled eggs.
In the 17th century Felin Glais was a barn; today it provides spacious and comfortable accommodations but still hasn't lost its ancient character. Breakfast is great, with the meat and eggs coming from local producers. The owners will also provide packed lunches for hikers (£10). The inn is in Abersycir, 3 miles west of Brecon.
Most of the stylish, contemporary rooms in this Victorian town house have their own lounge; the Loft room has six cabin-style single beds. There's an equally stylish one-bedroom self-catering cottage next door. Free parking is available nearby.
This highly regarded dining pub dating from the early 20th century, in the village-like suburb of Llandaff, offers two chic rooms that are cozy homes away from home. Both have super king beds and coffee machines as well as original features and antiques. Room 1 has a roll-top bath while Room 2, slightly larger, overlooks the hills toward Castell Coch.
This comfortable and immaculate Victorian house sits across from the train station, a five-minute stroll from the sea. The small but comfortable bedrooms have been tastefully refurbished in muted tones, with modern furniture. The charming hosts are full of information about the area.
Perhaps the best of the many B&Bs on Cathedral Road—a handsome enclave of Victorian houses—this place close to the city center is a great find. The rooms are reasonably sized; some have antique-style furnishings (one has a four-poster bed), while others have a more contemporary vibe. Breakfasts are good and hearty. You can order light snacks in the bar, or the staff can recommend places to eat nearby.
A Georgian town house in the heart of Ruthin has been converted into a gorgeous boutique hotel. Each room is like a tiny art exhibition, designed and decorated by the artist whose work hangs on the walls. There's also a library, gallery, private cinema, and cocktail bar. The highly regarded restaurant, serving locally sourced food, is currently open to guests only on weekdays; reserve in advance. The popular weekly film club and monthly supper club are open to everyone.
This boutique B&B is a breath of fresh air in such a traditional village, offering guests some real Welsh hospitality in modern, stylish surroundings. You'll find six well-equipped minimalist rooms with Welsh blankets and free Netflix along with Welsh tapas made with local produce on the menu in the shabby-chic restaurant (try one of the grazing boards). The bar has an excellent selection of Welsh craft beers and spirits.
A gem of a B&B next to the River Wye, Parva Farmhouse also offers a great restaurant run by a former chef at the Walnut Tree in Abergavenny. Rooms are individually decorated in a contemporary style; those on the upper floor have nice views. There's a small sitting room for guests, with a log fire in winter. Breakfast is a real treat featuring the likes of smoked haddock with poached egg or spicy baked haricot beans with bacon.
This former Victorian bathhouse at the water's edge in Mumbles, 4 miles west of Swansea, is now a comfortable B&B. The bedrooms are named after local beaches and individually decorated; Caswell Bay can sleep a family of four. After a tasty cooked breakfast, take a walk along the promenade.
Located in the shadow of Harlech Castle, Y Branwen is a homey restaurant with rooms and a friendly place for an overnight stay. The guest areas are good-size and modern. The smart restaurant has plenty of traditional Welsh flavors on offer, and there are 70 gins and 35 whiskies on the bar menu. Harlech Castle is a short stroll up the hill.
A Victorian Baptist chapel and adjoining stables have successfully been converted into a cozy and comfortable B&B, keeping many original features. The rooms are decorated in a contemporary style, with Welsh textiles and tea and coffeemaking facilities. Breakfast is taken at the owners' other property nearby, the Erskine Arms, which has some equally appealing accommodations and good pub food.
Complete the Welsh countryside idyll at this family-run bed-and-breakfast 8 km (5 miles) south of Holyhead. Spread across 7 hectares (18 acres) against the Irish Sea coast, the farm offers some of the best views on the isle of Anglesey. It's easy to get even closer to the water on several coastal trails or at the nearby public beach. However, the eight individually designed rooms inside are cute and comfortable enough to allow long morning lie-ins, if the birds don't wake you first. Portions of the farm are open to camping and caravans, with showering facilities provided, and they have two vacation homes for rent. Snacks and drinks are sold in the reception.
The significant charm to this small guesthouse on the outskirts of Holyhead comes as much from the quaint, country-style rooms as from the owner and caretaker, Len Williams, whose welcoming and obliging nature earns much praise. Cleanliness is not just a virtue here—it's paramount, and shows throughout the property. There's no restaurant, but room fridges are stocked with breakfast cereal, cookies, milk, and the fixings for hot chocolate, tea, and coffee. The ground-floor room offers a tad more privacy with its private entrance and enclosed patio and garden.
