4 Best Hotels in Rio Dulce, The Atlantic Lowlands

On the north bank of the Río Dulce, this lovely resort takes advantage of its location with a restaurant built right over the water. The specialties are grilled steaks and fresh fish, including the delicious robalo plucked from the river. A string of spacious bungalows is cooled by river breezes, the nicest feature of which are the porches, perfect for watching boats. The staff can arrange boat trips along the river and to Livingston.

There is only very basic accommodation here, but people come for the eco-activities, not the rooms. Built out over the water, this jungle lodge—the name is pronounced Tee-HAHSH—offers a number of types of accommodations, from cozy birdhouse-shaped cabanas to large two-story bungalows with kitchens and dining rooms. A series of swinging bridges over a mangrove swamp lets you stroll to the adjacent nature reserve. Also nearby is a plantation where you can learn how rubber is extracted from trees. The lodge is also known for its restaurant, which serves a variety of Italian dishes, including homemade pesto. There are also plenty of vegetarian dishes.

Río Dulce's largest resort is also one of its more luxurious properties. Guests flock for the weekend from Guatemala City, leaving the hotel relatively quiet during the week. It's set amid lovely forested grounds near the San Felipe fortress. Rooms are all suites, with small kitchens, living rooms, and bedrooms containing one or two queen-size beds. Second-floor suites have private decks with individual hot tubs. The Banana Palms is a good option for families, since it has a separate children's pool, and games such as foosball, Ping-Pong, and billiards.

An in-town lodging on the Fronteras side of the bridge offers very simple rooms with a bed, television, chair, and little else. It's a good value if you don't need many amenities. Reception is on the first floor; all rooms are on the second, as well as a small communal balcony. The hotel is undergoing expansion at this writing, with the addition of rooms expected to be complete in late 2010.