Cecchi's
After three decades of working as a maître d' at some of the city's most upscale eateries, Michael Cecchi-Azzolina has a place of his own. His dimly lit, 120-seat eponymous restaurant exudes a sleek, classic New York vibe with green leather booths and Art Deco lighting fixtures. The kitchen produces excellent American comfort food, including a superlative two-patty burger; mushrooms stuffed with black truffles, breadcrumbs, and grana padano cheese; and sautéed calf's liver with mashed potatoes and bacon. Service, as you'd expect from a restaurant owned by a maître d', is friendly but professional.