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The area extends from the Machaneh Yehuda market and Nachla'ot neighborhood, through the central Downtown triangle, to King David Street. The range is vast, from funky budget or takeaway joints to upscale fine-dining specialists, from Middle Eastern food to European cuisine, and several surprises in between. Nonkosher restaurants do a roaring trade on Friday night, after the Sabbath begins, when their kosher counterparts are closed and the city streets quiet.
Grab a seat at the bar and sip a Peroni while you watch the young, friendly staff roll out extra-thin pizza dough in this narrow temple to Italian fast food. Toppings are tasty combinations of cheese, vegetables, and meats. If you'd rather enjoy pasta, the cooks will crank out fresh fettuccine on the countertop. There's an abundant supply of red and white wine, and seating is cozy but friendly in this intimate restaurant.
Inside an atmospheric old building, this kosher Italian restaurant has stone walls, graceful arches, and a sunny courtyard. For a main course, try the pappardelle cooked with flavorful wild mushrooms, or the earthy beet gnocchi served in a cashew cream sauce; whole-wheat and gluten-free pastas are available. The house salad, made with seasonal fruit and drizzled with a mustard-orange dressing, is delicious. After dinner, take a sip of the hot chocolate, dark chocolate, and whiskey topped with whipped cream and served in a shot glass. The wine list includes foreign and local choices.
You'll probably smell this eatery long before you see it: rich stews of eggplant, potatoes, and meat cook all day on kerosene burners, and the aromas waft into the Machaneh Yehuda market, taunting passersby. Try the stuffed grape leaves, scoop up hummus with freshly baked pitas, or order beef heaped over rice for a meal that will stick to your ribs.
Down the block from the Machaneh Yehuda produce market, Agrippas Street has some of Jerusalem's best-known greasy spoons. Loyalists claim that Steakiyat Hatzot, which means "Midnight Grill," actually pioneered the local favorite known as Me'orav Yerushalmi, or Jerusalem mixed grill—a substantial and delicious meal-in-a-pita of cumin-flavored bits of chicken hearts, livers, and other organ meats. A bulging pita sandwich, eaten standing up, will set you back about 54 shekels; you can also sit down at a table in the well-decorated dining area and pay about twice that amount for skewers of grilled meat, duck breast, or fish. There are plenty of vegan and children's options.
The son of a prominent family of Iraqi bakers founded this airy, spacious bistro featuring fresh breads, pastries, and pastas. It's considered a top spot for brunch as well as Italian-style aperitivo in the evening, and the large wooden communal table is the perfect way to share a light meal with strangers. Try the salad dressed in Campari vinaigrette, the focaccia dotted with goat cheese and dates, or the ricotta gnocchi. If you're just passing through, consider taking home some of the expertly selected prepared foods and local offerings, like Israeli wines, olive oils, and liquors.
