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The area extends from the Machaneh Yehuda market and Nachla'ot neighborhood, through the central Downtown triangle, to King David Street. The range is vast, from funky budget or takeaway joints to upscale fine-dining specialists, from Middle Eastern food to European cuisine, and several surprises in between. Nonkosher restaurants do a roaring trade on Friday night, after the Sabbath begins, when their kosher counterparts are closed and the city streets quiet.
This is where Jerusalemites go to have a loud, raucous good time and eat great Israeli food all in one fell swoop. It's all about the twists on local meat dishes, especially the meat-stuffed ravioli and asado risotto. Be sure to check out the hidden bar, Jacko's Son, behind the "fridge of Tequila bottles." It's tough to score a reservation, so call way in advance.
Sink into one of Menza's retro-style banquettes or take a seat around a robust wooden table for a deliciously prepared meal in this lovely café between downtown and Machaneh Yehuda market. Israeli breakfast or brunch dishes like croque monsieur are served as late as 1 pm, but be sure to stop by again in the evening to try the creative versions of bistro classics such as seared tuna niçoise salad. The menu also lists vegan options.
In this elegantly clubby version of the 24-hour diner, you can enjoy a wide variety of breakfast options, from the traditional English breakfast of bacon, sausage, baked beans, and a sunny-side-up egg, to the classic Israeli breakfast of eggs, cheeses, and fresh vegetables. Later on you can sample the house-made pumpkin tortellini or the famous French toast. There's a discount when you dine on weekday afternoons. There's a good kids' menu that's served fast to keep little ones happy.
Jerusalemite Daniella Lerer combines her family's Sephardic culinary traditions with modern Israeli cooking techniques and personal favorites from two decades in the business. Reservations are a must for Friday dinner and on Saturday, when there are often live performances outside. Starters include pickled herring, boyikos (cheesy biscuits), and pastelikos (dumplings stuffed with seasoned ground meat). Main dishes include sufrito (braised dumplings with Jerusalem artichokes) and shrimp in wine and lemon. For dessert, look for the traditional sutlach, a cold rice pudding topped with cinnamon, nuts, and halva. Barood's other face is its well-stocked bar serving more familiar fare like spareribs and sausages, along with homemade citrus schnapps and 20 other flavors of schnapps.
Hebrew for "Sea Dolphin," this lively eatery serves some of the city's best seafood. The decor is pleasant enough—pale yellow stucco walls, recessed wine racks, arched windows, and an outdoor patio—but the food is what draws the mixed clientele, including plenty of families. Start with appetizers like the excellent wild roasted eggplant with tahini and pine nuts, then move on to the shrimp in a mushroom-cream sauce or the drum fish in a tasty broth. You can also experiment with the generous seafood platter for two that includes crab, scallops, and calamari.
Down the block from the Machaneh Yehuda produce market, Agrippas Street has some of Jerusalem's best-known greasy spoons. Loyalists claim that Steakiyat Hatzot, which means "Midnight Grill," actually pioneered the local favorite known as Me'orav Yerushalmi, or Jerusalem mixed grill—a substantial and delicious meal-in-a-pita of cumin-flavored bits of chicken hearts, livers, and other organ meats. A bulging pita sandwich, eaten standing up, will set you back about 54 shekels; you can also sit down at a table in the well-decorated dining area and pay about twice that amount for skewers of grilled meat, duck breast, or fish. There are plenty of vegan and children's options.
