Kalky's
Right on the harbor, this cash-only establishment (there's an on-site ATM) is the first choice for authentic, no-frills, from-the-boat-to-the-plate feasting. Once you've gotten in line and placed your order, grab a table to watch the waves break over the harbor wall as the little boats and their crews go about their chores; servers will bring you your food. Be aware that the seagulls will fight for your leftovers (or take a chance by stealing food from your table), as might a seal that happens to be lounging near the edge of the eating area.