Coy
Inspired, clever, and—above all—delicious, the food at this excellent Ryan Cole–helmed restaurant is intent on redefining South Africa's high-end dining scene. To achieve this, Cole (whose other venture, Salsify, is also a must-try) asked head chefs Teenola Govender and Geoffrey Abrahams to create a menu inspired by personal food memories and their respective cultural backgrounds using the best seasonal ingredients. The result is set menus, with options for vegetarians and pescatarians, that are a concise, flavor-focused acknowledgement of Africa as its own gastronomic entity. There's a beautiful vegetarian dish of samp (dried corn kernels) and chakalaka (chopped veggies, tomatoes, and beans) that's quintessentially South African or maybe ox tongue with ras el hanout (a Moroccan spice blend) and beef tallow, or an incredible tuna tartare cold starter made with sugarcane and caramelized pineapple that beautifully evokes summertime on the beachfront in Durban (where Teenola grew up). Most of the dishes will be unlike anything you've ever had and will probably never have the opportunity to try again; mouthful after mouthful, you'll likely feel as though the world has shifted off its axis slightly, altering your understanding of what food can be.
