Both Cyprus and Greece have a fondness for local tavernas known as ouzeri, where people hang out over plates of meze and drink barrel wine in tumblers. Close to the very heart of the city, this Greek-Cypriot restaurant established by the young, brilliant chef Nic Charalambous pays tribute not only to his upbringing in a traditional, Orthodox Cypriot household, but also to the many sociable eating-and-drinking-and-schmoozing experiences he’s had on Cyprus and across the Greek isles. The atmosphere, mood, and charm are straight from another world, and the food's unlike anything else in the city. Each dish beautifully showcases Nic's special way of taking genuinely home-style, traditional dishes and giving them a contemporary, highly creative twist, with a firm focus on utilizing local ingredients. The feasting might include warm green olives (a standard at any Cypriot mealtime), taramasalata in which to dip homemade chickpea fries, eliopita (olive bread) stuffed with butter-soft roasted garlic, and Macedonian lamb manti or braised lentils with squid and youvetsi (a dish from Corfu) made with beef shin.