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Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis are great for sightseeing, which is why much of the dining scene on these islands revolves around fast food and tourist traps. Luckily, a few long-established brasseries and inspired bistros on elegant Ile St-Louis—not to mention the legendary Berthillon, the city's great glacier (ice-cream maker)—more than compensate. Among the shops, épiceries, and ancient bookstores of Rue St-Louis en l'Ile, the island's central spine, you'll find enough quality dining to keep you satisfied at any time of the day.
Built in 1512 as a residence for the Canon of Notre-Dame, Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole was converted into a wine bar in 1723, making it one of the city’s oldest restaurants. It specializes in dishes from the Aveyron region in the southwest (if it's on the menu, try the coufidou d’Aubrac, a rich beef stew made with Marcillac wine) and serves everything in plush red-velvet-and-antiques dining areas that are a treat for the eyes.
With its dream location on the tip of Île St-Louis overlooking the Seine and Notre-Dame, you'd think this charming brasserie, like so many before it, would have succumbed to its own success. Yet it remains exactly what a decent neighborhood brasserie should be, with authentic decor, efficiently friendly service, and reliably good food. Try the classic leeks vinaigrette, country terrine, and a savory onion tarte à la maison for starters, followed by tender sole meunière, classic choucroute, or buttered entrecôte. The outdoor terrace simply can't be beat.
Wondering where locals drink their coffee on touristy Île St-Louis? Try this old-time café that also features a menu of classic French dishes—it's open until 2 am daily.
