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Change comes slowly to this old bourgeois neighborhood bordering the Bois de Boulogne. It's full of Paris stalwarts, where families have gathered over generations, and you can find some wonderful deeply Parisian bistros and brasseries. Avoid anything looking too chic or polished, where you'll very often pay high prices for mediocre fare.
The plush chestnut-and-cream decor of this café is the work of one of Givenchy's nephews. Cocktails are classy, there's a good variety of beer on tap, and the food (brasserie fare such as steaks, fish, and frites) is tasty. In the evening, candlelight makes everyone look even more glamorous.
