5 Best Restaurants in Mytilini, The Northern Aegean Islands

This centuries-old landmark on the main thoroughfare between the old and new harbors dates back to Ottoman times, and is perhaps the best place in town to sip ouzo—you'll be sat beneath a vine-shaded terrace with fresh flowers on your table and plenty of old-world relics to eye while you wait. A long list of mouthwatering and excellent-value mezedes are on the menu, such as smyrneika soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs), octopus in wine sauce, long-cooked chickpeas, baked aubergines, and homemade sausages, plus traditional desserts.

This social enterprise restaurant was founded by four Greek women seeking to integrate the refugee population into island society. Volunteer-run and offering employment to refugees from the Middle East, North Africa, and beyond, the refugee chefs cook a global cuisine: you can start your meal with Syrian tabbouleh, then have Ethiopian fava stew as a main, and an Afghan sweet for dessert. Pick up a copy of their cookbook as a souvenir of your visit.

This friendly family-run spot in the hill village of Kagiani, next to Varia and just south of Mytilene, has wonderful views of Mytilini town, the Aegean, and Asia Minor beyond. Grilled octopus, crisp fried fish, stuffed zucchini flowers, and flavorful salads are served in traditional Lesvos style as small plates to accompany ouzo. It's best to reserve in the busy summer months, when locals and returning visitors crowd in to enjoy the evening breeze and twinkling lights.

An ever-popular ouzeri and grill on shady Thassou Street in the Old Town is an almost mandatory stop while shopping along adjoining Ermou Street. Fresh grilled baby calamari and lightly fried courgette flowers stuffed with cheese are among many enticing bites that accompany the generous selection of ouzo. Some evenings local musicians come and play rembetiko (Greek folk music), which makes the ouzo taste even better.

With views across the waterfront, the Sugar House's display cases heave with all manner of biscuits, cakes, and baked goods. From morning until night, locals and travelers alike come in search of the ultimate sweet treat. A coffee and a cake, or a bowl of ice cream, makes for an indulgent break in the day at this cute little patisserie.