Ermou
Stroll the main street, Ermou, which goes from the port on the north side of town to the port on the south side. Scruffy but characterful, Ouzo wholesalers rub shoulders with clothing boutiques. Walk past the fish market on the southern end, where men haul in their sardines, mullet, and octopus, and explore narrow lanes filled with grand old mansions in varying states of romantic ruin.