The old village of Eresos, separated from the coast by a large plain, was developed to protect its inhabitants from pirate raids. Along the mulberry tree–lined road leading from the beach you might encounter a villager wearing a traditional head scarf (mandila), plodding by on her donkey. Equally you might meet a former hippie reliving their youth; it is that kind of place—a community of spiritually minded people you would not expect to find in a remote Greek island village. The settlement of two-story, 19th-century stone and shingle houses, often restored by Northern European second homers and retirees, is filled with superb architectural details. Note the huge wooden doors decorated with nails and elaborate door knockers, loophole windows in thick stone walls, elegant pediments topping imposing mansions, and fountains spilling under Gothic arches.