6 Best Hotels in Connemara and County Mayo, Ireland

A lake at its front door, the Atlantic Ocean at the back, and the mountains of Connemara as a backdrop form the enthralling setting for this hotel 8 km (5 miles) north of Letterfrack, home to the Long Room, one of the most eminently civilized salons in Ireland—Arts and Crafts–style polished wood, original art, and red geraniums. Once the retreat of that noted Irish man of letters, Oliver St. John Gogarty of Dublin (on whom James Joyce modeled Buck Mulligan in Ulysses), Renvyle is rustic and informal; it has exposed beams and brickwork, and numerous open turf fires. Ireland's poet--president, Michael D. Higgins continues the literary tradition by taking his annual break here. Chef Tim O'Sullivan is outstanding and deservedly a local celebrity, with his own cookbook and artisanal food line. The comfortable guest rooms, plainly decorated in an uncluttered style, in shades of beige and cream, all have breathtaking views.

Creeper-covered, as if under a Sleeping Beauty spell, the gorgeous Victorian castle-manor of Abbeyglen sits framed by towering trees on a height above Clifden town—if time hasn't completely stopped here, it has certainly slowed down, but that's just the way the relaxed guests want it. Surrounded by gardens with waterfalls and streams, Abbeyglen was built in 1832 by John D'Arcy, the founder of Clifden. Inside, guest rooms vary in size and design, some with wooden floors, some with gas fireplaces, some with four-poster beds. Insist on a front room when booking if you enjoy great views. Even though it's a castle, it is also a fun place to stay, owned by the famously hospitable Hughes brothers, Paul and Brian. Complimentary afternoon tea is served in the bar, effortlessly giving way to evening drinks, and later the piano player strikes up. Beware Froda the parrot, who has the run of reception: she wolf-whistles, but she also bites.

Built in the 1790s at the entrance to Leenane village as a coaching inn, this hotel is only separated from Killary Fjord by the main road. Nearly all the bedrooms have a magical view, and it is worth waking at first light to savor the fjord in the early-morning mist. You may have to share that view, as this is a popular touring base among both Irish and overseas visitors, with its busy bar and a pleasantly old-fashioned hotel restaurant serving a three-course dinner. Local rack of Connemara lamb and salmon from the fjord usually feature on the menu. The residents' lounge recalls a previous era, with its assorted shabby-chic chairs and sofas. The biggest treat here, especially after a day in the open, is the seaweed baths (also bookable by non-guests), in which you share a tub of heated saltwater with a bucket full of freshly picked seaweed. The bigger guest rooms are in the newest wing.

Check the website for good dinner-B&B deals.

Perched on a cliff overlooking a vast, sandy beach on the northern side of Clew Bay, 25 minutes' drive from Westport, this is one of Ireland's best-loved "bucket and spade" hotels, built in 1897 for holidaymakers arriving by train. The railway line is now the cycling and walking route known as the Great Western Greenway, which leads to Achill Island, 14 km (9 miles) to the east. The hotel retains a certain grandeur in the large scale of its bar and restaurant, with an extensive sun terrace facing the sea, and is as popular as ever with Irish families, as well as walkers and honeymooners. Choose between excellent bar food ($) and the acclaimed fine-dining experience in the more formal Nephin Restaurant ($$$). The staff are warm and enthusiastic, and full of useful touring tips.

For a small supplement you can stay up under the eaves in the retro John Lennon Suite, where he and Yoko Ono spent a long weekend in 1968.

There is a 20-meter (65-foot) indoor pool with an outdoor hot tub, while the lobby and lounge have open turf fires and inviting sofas.

Built by James Edward Jackson, land agent for Lord Iveagh at Ashford Castle, this well-off-the-beaten-path, white-trim Georgian house, managed by the enthusiastic Henry and Elaine Reid, has a surprisingly stylish interior, with 19th-century antiques and welcoming open fires. Surrounded by 5 acres of colorful gardens, this country hideaway sits near a stream. Guest rooms above the converted stables are simpler and smaller than those in the suavely furnished house, but all have peaceful garden views and 20-inch flat-screen TVs, should you feel the need.

With all the hallmarks of Ireland's Celtic Tiger boom time, this swish and stylish boutique hotel has a vast marble lobby with a double-sided gas fire and huge guest rooms with over-sized, veneered, Art Deco–style furniture and bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs and modern showers. This may not be what you've come to the West of Ireland to experience, but there's plenty to enjoy about it. It's part of a large new complex in the town center, and shares leisure facilities with its more traditional sister hotel, the Castlecourt. The best bedrooms overlook a Zen-like inner roof garden, while others have balconies perched over the fountain and ground-floor courtyard.