4 Best Sights in Bologna, Emilia–Romagna

The museum—the name stands for Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna, or Bologna's Museum of Modern Art—houses a permanent collection of modern art. All of this is set within the sleek minimalist structure built in 1915 as the Forno del Pane, a large bakery. Seek out the powerful Arte e Ideologia section for Guttuso's Funerali di Togliatti (1972), a charged symbol of pride and pain for many Bolognesi and Italiani. The work of Bologna's celebrated abstract painter Giorgio Morandi (1890–64), known for his muted still life paintings of domestic objects and landscapes, can be viewed at the Museo Morandi here. The fab bookshop and MAMbo Cafè complete the complex.

This splendid and unusual basilica contains between four and seven connected churches (authorities differ). A 4th-century temple dedicated to Isis originally occupied this site, but much of what you see was erected between the 10th and 12th centuries. Just outside the church, which probably dates from the 5th century (with later alterations), is the Cortile di Pilato (Pilate's Courtyard), named for the basin in the center. Despite the fact that the basin was probably crafted around the 8th century, legend has it that Pontius Pilate washed his hands in it after condemning Christ. 

With panoramic views and grandiose Baroque architecture atop the forested Colle della Guardia hill some 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Piazza Maggiore, the 1765-consecrated Sanctuary of San Luca church is a symbol of Bologna. For a bona fide Bolognese pilgrimage, climb the 950-foot hill on foot from Porta Saragozza protected by the 666 arches (alluding to the Madonna-crushed devil) and 15 chapels of the world's longest portico (3.9 km/2.4 miles). The final ceremonial section (completed in 1721) begins at the monumental Arco del Meloncello, which echoes the orange-hued architecture of the basilica itself. Visitors can ascend a further 110 steps into the cupola for 180-degree views as part of the new San Luca Sky Experience. For a less strenuous route to the sanctuary hop on the No. 20 bus then the 58 minibus (from Villa Spada), or the San Luca Express trenino (mini tourist train; €13 return) from the city center. To avoid the crowds, set out early morning.

Take a stroll through the streets of the university area: a jumble of buildings, some dating as far back as the 15th century and most to the 17th and 18th. The neighborhood, as befits a college town, is full of bookshops, coffee bars, and inexpensive restaurants. Political slogans and sentiments are scrawled on walls all around the university and tend to be ferociously leftist, sometimes juvenile, and often entertaining. Among the 15 university museums, the most interesting is the Museo di Palazzo Poggi, which displays scientific instruments plus paleontological and botanical artifacts.