3 Best Restaurants in Modena, Emilia–Romagna

In the back room of the Salumeria Giusti, established in 1605 and reportedly the world's oldest deli, you'll find just four tables in a room tastefully done with antique furnishings. You'll also find some of the best food in Emilia-Romagna—perfectly executed takes on traditional dishes such as gnocco fritto (fried dough) stuffed with pancetta or prosciutto, and tortellini in brodo di Cappone (pasta in possibly the most fragrant broth in the world). If you're tempted by too many things, half portions may be available. Just leave room for dessert, especially the sumptuous chocolate pudding budino al cioccolato. The wine list is divine, as are the staff. Reserve well ahead.

Chef-proprietor Massimo Bottura has done stints with Adrià and Ducasse, takes inspiration from music and literature, and pours all these influences into creating some of the fanciest plates in all of Italy while remaining true to his Modenese roots. The restaurant contains only 12 tables and it's possible to order à la carte; for the full haute cuisine experience opt for the seasonal tasting menu with the accompanying wine pairing (€590). Decor and atmosphere are muted (except for splendid floral arrangements). Reservations are not only essential, but must be made months in advance, online and at the beginning of the month.

Mercurial host Ermes Rinaldi greets you as you walk in and seats you wherever he happens to have room: it doesn't matter that you might be put with people you don't know, since the host feels this quasi-communal style of lunching encourages conviviality. In the kitchen, Bruna, Ermes's wife, turns out splendid versions of cucina casalinga modenesi (home cooking, Modena-style). Ermes recites the short list of primi and secondi on the set-price menu, which change daily and arrive promptly. The accompanying wine is local, simple, and inexpensive: most stick to Lambrusco. It's no surprise that this rough-and-ready place is favored by everyone from suits to construction workers to students. Come early to get a table, and note that bookings are not accepted.