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Florence's popularity with tourists means that, unfortunately, there's a higher percentage of mediocre restaurants here than you'll find in most Italian towns (Venice, perhaps, might win the prize). Some restaurant owners cut corners and let standards slip, knowing that a customer today is unlikely to return tomorrow, regardless of the quality of the meal. So, if you're looking to eat well, it pays to do some research, starting with the recommendations here. Dining hours start at around 1 for lunch and 8 for dinner. Many of Florence's restaurants are small, so reservations are a must. You can sample such specialties as creamy fegatini (a chicken-liver spread) and ribollita (minestrone thickened with bread and beans and swirled with extra-virgin olive oil) in a bustling, convivial trattoria, where you share long wooden tables set with paper place mats, or in an upscale ristorante with linen tablecloths and napkins.
Those with a sense of culinary adventure should not miss the tripe sandwich, served from stands throughout town. This Florentine favorite comes with a fragrant salsa verde (green sauce) or a piquant red hot sauce—or both. Follow the Florentines' lead and take a break at an enoteca (wine bar) during the day and discover some excellent Chiantis and Super Tuscans from small producers who rarely export.
International cuisine in Florence is a hit-or-miss affair. Although numerous Asian restaurants have sprung up since the 1990s, only a select few are worth a visit. Still, if you need a break from Italian, some relief is available.
Pizzas in Florence can't compete with their counterparts in Rome or Naples, but you can sample a few good approximations.
Cafés in Italy serve not only coffee concoctions and pastries but also sweets, drinks, and panini, and some have hot pasta and lunch dishes. They usually open from early in the morning to late at night, and are often closed Sunday.
The eclectic staff perfectly matches the diverse menu at this trattoria, where, in winter, you can eat in one of two rooms with high ceilings, and, in summer, you can sit outside and people-watch. Traditional Tuscan favorites, such as tortelli mugellani (potato- and cheese-stuffed pasta in a wild boar meat sauce), are on offer, as are less typical dishes such as the earthy cabbage salad with avocado, pine nuts, and drops of olio di tartufo (truffle oil). Reservations are advised.
The Frescobaldi family has run a vineyard for more than 700 years, and this swanky establishment offers tasty and sumptuous fare to accompany some seriously fine wines. The menu is typically Tuscan, but turned up a notch or two. Save room for dessert, as well as one of the dessert wines.
The only kosher–vegetarian restaurant in Tuscany is Ruth's, adjacent to Florence's synagogue. On the menu are inexpensive vegetarian and Mediterranean dishes, and there's also a large selection of kosher wines. It's closed for Friday dinner and Saturday lunch.
Handily located between Piazza San Marco and Piazza San Lorenzo, the first outpost of Shake (there are now five throughout the city) serves up creative juices, tasty baked goods, wonderful salads, and great bowls. It's committed to sustainability and to keeping its carbon footprint small.
It looks and feels like California on the Arno at this sleek, airy restaurant a short ride from the city center. Chef-owner Gabriele Tarchiani has spent time in the United States, which shows in the plants that fill the interior as well as the creative touches on the frequently changing menu. Leave room for dessert—they're culinary masterpieces. Many Florentines come here to celebrate special occasions.
If you're making the trip to Settignano, get off Bus 10 at the stop called Ponte a Mensola for a meal at this small, unassuming, family-run trattoria situated along a street and a tiny stream. The food is terrific, and though it is described as cucina casalinga (home cooking), only the portions are home style. If you sit outside (there are no views, alas), you might hear the trickle of the stream.
"Zeb" stands for zuppa e bollito (soup and boiled things), but you can't go wrong with anything at this small alimentari (delicatessen) with high-quality ingredients at a reasonable price. It's homestyle Tuscan cuisine at its very best, served in intimate surroundings (there's room for only about 20 diners). Giuseppina and her son, Alberto, insist on cooking what's fresh that day, reflecting the season's best offerings.
