Palazzo Caracciolo
Sleek, soigné, and swank, this hotel set in the majestic palace of the very majestic Caracciolos (one of the most gilded names in Neapolitan history) is definitely a diamond in the rough—the rough being its immediate neighborhood, which is a bit off the main tourist track. The duomo, however, is a mere five-minute walk, and the hotel is steps away from the "family" church, San Giovanni a Carbonara, favored by Carracciolo princes, warriors, lovers, and cardinals. Although the palace dates from the 14th century, this lodging has been refurbished for 21st-century visitors with red sofas, Gio Ponti–inspired ornaments, burnished black globes, and artworks that mirror Lucio Fontana minimal masterpieces. Done up in silvers and taupes, the guest rooms are cool and contemporary, and they all have thick piperno walls to buffer the din from the noisiest motorcycles, of which there are more than a few in this district. The cloister, where the restaurant is located and breakfast is taken, hosts temporary exhibitions of young artists, which are open to nonguests.
