Mimì alla Ferrovia
Patrons of this local institution have included the filmmaker Federico Fellini and that truly Neapolitan comic genius and self-styled aristocrat Totò. It's in a fairly seedy area, but it's worth taking a taxi (especially at night) to get here and sample updated versions of such classics as grilled octopus or tubettoni (short, tubular pasta shapes) with sausage-meat, mushrooms, and provola cheese. There's often a short line of diners waiting to be seated, and the tables are somewhat squeezed together, but the atmosphere is lively. This is not so much a see-and-be-seen place as common ground for the famous and the unknown to mingle, feast, and be merry.