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In Rome, the Eternal(ly culinarily conservative) City, simple yet traditional cuisine reigns supreme. Most chefs prefer to follow the mantra of freshness over fuss, and simplicity of flavor and preparation over complex cooking techniques.
Rome has been known since antiquity for its grand feasts and banquets, and dining out has alway been a favorite Roman pastime. Until recently, the city's buongustaii (gourmands) would have been the first to tell you that Rome is distinguished more by its enthusiasm for eating out than for a multitude of world-class restaurants—but this is changing. There is an ever-growing promotion of slow-food practices, a focus on sustainably and locally sourced produce. The economic crisis has forced the food industry in Rome to adopt innovative ways to maintain a clientele who are increasingly looking to dine out but want to spend less. The result has been the rise of "street food" restaurants, selling everything from inexpensive and novel takes on the classic supplì (Roman fried-rice balls) to sandwich shops that use a variety of organic ingredients.
Generally speaking, Romans like Roman food, and that’s what you’ll find in many of the city’s trattorias and wine bars. For the most part, today’s chefs cling to the traditional and excel at what has taken hundreds, sometimes thousands, of years to perfect. This is why the basic trattoria menu is more or less the same wherever you go. And it's why even the top Roman chefs feature their versions of simple trattoria classics like carbonara, and why those who attempt to offer it in a "deconstructed" or slightly varied way will often come under criticism. To a great extent, Rome is still a town where the Italian equivalent of "What are you in the mood for?" still gets the answer, "Pizza or pasta."
Nevertheless, Rome is the capital of Italy, and because people move here from every corner of the Italian peninsula, there are more variations on the Italian theme in Rome than you'd find elsewhere in Italy: Sicilian, Tuscan, Pugliese, Bolognese, Marchegiano, Sardinian, and northern Italian regional cuisines are all represented. And reflecting the increasingly cosmopolitan nature of the city, you'll find a growing number of good-quality international foods here as well—particularly Japanese, Indian, and Ethiopian.
Oddly enough, though, for a nation that prides itself on la bella figura ("looking good"), most Romans don't fuss about music, personal space, lighting, or decor. After all, who needs flashy interior design when so much of Roman life takes place outdoors, when dining alfresco in Rome can take place in the middle of a glorious ancient site or a centuries-old piazza?
Exposed brick walls and tables made from upcycled parquet flooring or white marble are among the design elements at this welcoming bistro founded by two surfer brothers. With the exception of primi (pastas) and burgers, all of the dishes can be ordered as full-size options or small portions that let you taste your way through the menu.
It's hard to find genuinely good food in the Campidoglio area, but this wine bar next to Trajan's Column is an exception. Ideal for coffee, a late lunch, early supper, or just an aperitivo (aperitif), it showcases local produce and is a great spot to rest after wandering amid the ruins.
The name refers to its proximity to the tram tracks, but it could also be used to describe the small interior of the restaurant, which is often packed with diners (in warmer weather there's a "side car" of tables along the sidewalk). Founded by Rosanna Borrelli and her two daughters, the restaurant gives Roman cuisine slight Puglian touches, emphasizing meat and vegetables—pappardelle with a white ragù of lamb and artichokes, for example—as well as a variety of homemade pastas.
Stefano Callegari is one of Rome's most famous pizza makers, but at Trapizzino he's doing something a bit different. The name of the restaurant is derived from the Italian words for sandwich (tramezzino) and pizza, and the result is something like an upscale pizza pocket, stuffed on the spot with local specialties like herby chicken alla cacciatore, or trippa (tripe), or roast pumpkin, pecorino, and almonds. The supplì (fried risotto balls) are also delicious. This original location is teeny, but more seating is available one storefront down.
This beloved neighborhood trattoria does many things well, from the fried starters to the pastas to the meaty secondi (second course), so it's no surprise that it's won the hearts—and stomachs—of Romans all over town. The wine list is extensive, and the friendly waitstaff are happy to offer advice. There's also a pleasant outdoor seating area when weather allows.
There is just a handful of wooden tables crowded into the upstairs and downstairs dining rooms at this family-run trattoria, where the walls are festooned with photographs and soccer jerseys. Owner Danilo Valenti presides over the dining room, while his mother, Pina, whips up Roman classics, including an excellent carbonara, carciofi alla romana, and cacio e pepe that gets tossed tableside in a wheel of pecorino cheese.
Sitting between Testaccio and Ostiense, Trattoria Pennestri manages to strike a careful balance between tradition and innovation. The thoughtful takes on Roman classics brighten up heavy dishes and add a more appetizing spin to some of the city's beloved entrails recipes. The wine list, which features many natural and organic producers, is also excellent.
This casual, relaxed trattoria follows the style of a fraschetta, a type of countryside restaurant where the menu focuses on porchetta—here, it's served on butcher's paper according to how many people are in your party. Accompany the main attraction with a cheese-and-charcuterie board followed by pasta all’amatriciana or cacio e pepe.
The sidewalk tables of this caffè and its restaurant annex offer a grandstand view of all the action of the Piazza Navona. This is the place that invented the tartufo, a luscious chocolate ice-cream specialty.
As its name suggests, this place is, indeed, set amid lush greenery and decorated in tree-house style. Functioning as a bar, restaurant, and enoteca all at once, it's open for lunch and dinner as well as for apertivi and late-night drinks and brunch on weekends. The focaccias are an excellent snack; for larger plates, you can expect pizzas, salads, burgers, and fish.
Just off Piazza Barberini, this upscale trattoria has been serving Tuscan classics since 1950. It specializes in high-quality meat dishes, including prime cuts of beef and veal. There are also a few key Roman dishes on the menu such as the artichoke starter. The wine list favors robust Tuscan reds and thick wallets. The decor is basic wood paneling and white linens, with the requisite older—and often grumpy—waiters.
This restaurant serving lunch and dinner embodies the kilometro zero concept, highlighting hyper-local food from the surrounding Lazio region. The local boho crowd comes for tasty lunch and dinner options like amatriciana served in a pan or cheeseburgers in an industrial-chic space (with free Wi-Fi). In warm weather, the outdoor tables are the perfect people-watching perch.
For an alternative to the heavy pastas typically found in Roman restaurants, this cheerful bistro inside Palazzo Bonaparte is a great choice. There are plenty of healthy options like excellent salads and poké bowls, as well as heartier fare such as burgers and, yes, pasta. This woman-owned business has four locations in Rome, and they're all B Corp certified with an emphasis on sustainability.
