2 Best Sights in Haarlem, The Randstad

Named after the celebrated man himself, this not-to-be-missed museum holds a collection of amazingly virile and lively group portraits by the Golden Age painter, depicting the merrymaking civic guards and congregating regents for which he became world famous. The building itself is one of the town's smarter hofjes: an entire block of almshouses grouped around an attractive courtyard. In the 17th century, this was an oudemannenhuis, or home for elderly men, so it is only fitting that their cottages now form a sequence of galleries for the paintings of Hals and other 17th-century masters of the Haarlem School, along with period furniture, antique silver, and ceramics.

Many of the works on display represent Hals at his jovial best—for instance, the Banquet of the Officers of the Civic Guard of St. Adrian (1624–27) or the Banquet of the Officers of the St. George Militia (1616), where the artist cunningly allows for the niceties of rank (captains are more prominent than sergeants, and so on down the line) as well as emotional interaction: he was the first painter to have people gaze and laugh at each other in these grand portraits.

As respite from nearly 250 canvases, step into the museum's courtyard—lovely, and planted with formal-garden baby hedges, of which you get only fleeting glimpses as you work your way through the galleries (most of the blinds are shut against the sunlight to protect the paintings). In one room, with curtains drawn for extra protection, is Sara Rothè's Dolls' House; nearby is an exquisitely crafted miniature version of a merchant's canal house. On leaving, View of Haarlem (1655) by Nicolaes Hals, Frans's son, bids you farewell.

From mid-March to mid-May, during bulb season, the museum is made even more resplendent, with a liberal splash of tulip bouquets and other floral art displays adding extra color to the galleries and hallways.

Just north of the Waag (the Weigh House, built entirely of stone in 1598 and now a pleasant little café), Teylers is housed in a grand 18th-century building with mosaic floors. The best sort of small museum, it is based on the whims of an eccentric private collector, in this case the 18th-century merchant Pieter Teyler van der Hulst. It's the country's oldest museum, founded in 1784, and has a mixture of exhibits: fossils and minerals sit alongside antique scientific instruments, such as a battery of 25 Leiden jars, dating to 1789 and used to store an electric charge. The major artistic attraction is a legendary collection of drawings and prints by Michelangelo, Rembrandt, Raphael, and other Old Masters that once belonged to Queen Christina of Sweden.

Finally opened to the public in 2021 following an eight-year restoration process, a new side wing to the museum now allows you to explore the adjoining home in which Pieter Teyler lived. Reception rooms and bedrooms have been opulently decked out with period furnishings from the late 18th century.