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Haarlem is a compact city and easy to cover on foot. From the main railway station it is about five minutes' walk south to the Grote Markt. The Frans Hals Museum is another five minutes beyond that.
Throughout the old city center are many historic hofjes—hidden little courtyards that make Haarlem an incredibly pleasant place to explore. Look for the Zuider Hofje, the Hofje van Loo, the Wijnbergs Hofje, and the Brouwershofje (they are all signposted). Closer to the Grote Markt are the Remonstrants Hofje, the Luthershofje, and the Frans Loenen Hofje. These secluded gardens are filled with flowers and birdsong, and offer peace and respite away from the city streets. They are usually open weekdays 10–5.
Zandvoort is only 9 km (5½ miles) from Haarlem and has the area's biggest and best beach (a favorite of sun-starved Amsterdammers). It can get crowded, but if you wander south for 10 minutes, you can find isolated spots among the dunes; after about 20 minutes, you come to the nude (in places, gay) sunbathing beach.
