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If you arrive by train, you might be forgiven for thinking Utrecht is one enormous covered shopping mall, since the station is incorporated into the warren of 200-plus shops that is the Hoog Catharijne. You could get lost here for a day, but if you follow signs for Centrum (town center) and keep walking with determination, you will eventually come out in the historic center. The soaring tower of Domtoren—tower of "the cathedral that is missing"—on the skyline will direct you to the center of the action. Most of the main sights are in a fairly compact area and reachable on foot within a few minutes of the Domtoren.
Utrecht's long, central, sunken canal—which suffers a confusing name change at several points en route through the city—is unique in Holland, for its esplanade has upper and lower levels, with shops and galleries opening onto street level, and restaurants and cafés on the walkway just above the water (sinking water levels centuries ago led to the excavation of a lower story).
