8 Best Sights in Aveiro, Coimbra and Central Portugal

In 1472, Princess Joana, daughter of King Afonso V, retired against her father's wishes to the Convento de Jesus—established by papal bull in 1461—where she spent the last 18 years of her life. After the last of the holy sisters died, the convent was closed in 1874. It now contains the Museu de Aveiro, which encompasses an 18th-century church whose interior is a masterpiece of baroque art. The elaborately gilded wood carvings and ornate ceiling by António Gomes and José Correia from Porto are among Portugal's finest. Blue-and-white azulejo panels have scenes depicting the life of Princess Joana, who was beatified in 1693 and whose tomb is in the lower choir. Her multicolor inlaid-marble sarcophagus is supported at each corner by delicately carved angels. Note also the 16th-century Renaissance cloisters, the splendid refectory lined with camellia-motif tiles, and the chapel of São João Evangelista (St. John the Evangelist).

Across the lagoon from Aveiro is a ribbon of small resort towns, the most delightful of which is Costa Nova, decked out in jazzy candy stripes. It's a pleasant spot for a walk along the ocean and a meal at one of the many seaside restaurants. Hourly buses make the 15-minute trip from Rua Clube dos Galitos in Aveiro, or you can take a quick, relatively inexpensive taxi or Uber. Cycling is also a great option, with an 11-km (7-mile, each way) route that takes around an hour, offering scenic views of the lagoon and coastal landscapes.

While this museum celebrates the city's rich Art Nouveau heritage, the main event is the actual building, known as Casa Major Pessoa, a wonderfully flamboyant example of the genre dating to 1909. Notable among the displays are stunning hand-painted tiles decorated with flowers, birds, and animals. The collection itself has a few items of interest, but the biggest plus is that visitors are given a map of various Art Nouveau landmarks around the city. They're easy to find, marked with silver plaques on the ground.

This 45-km (28-mile) delta of the Rio Vouga was formed in 1575, when a violent storm caused shifting sand to block the river's flow into the ocean. Over the next two centuries, as more and more sand piled up, the town's prosperity and population tumbled, recovering only when a canal breached the dunes in 1808. Today the lagoon's narrow waterways are dotted with tiny islands. Salt marshes and pine forests border the area, and the ocean side is lined with sandy beaches. In this tranquil setting, colorful moliceiro boats glide gracefully along, their owners often harvesting seaweed. The best way to see the lagoon is in one of the boats that depart from the canal across from the tourist office. A number of operators line the waterfront, most charging around €13 for a 45-minute tour.

Traditional salt production methods are on display at this small open-air museum on the edge of town. You can walk around the salt flats, watch workers extracting salt, and learn about the tools and techniques used in the process.

At Aveiro's northeast edge, the city's train station is an attraction in itself: the exterior of the whitewashed building displays a huge collection of 1916 azulejo panels depicting regional traditions and customs.

Facing Praça da República, in a small square a little way from the old town, you'll find the 18th-century Igreja da Misericórdia and its imposing baroque portal. The walls of the otherwise sober interior are resplendent with blue-and-white azulejos. Look out for the gilded altarpiece and finely carved woodwork, as well as the quiet courtyard next door, often missed by passers-by.

Aveiro's opulent, palm-filled city park is the biggest green space in the city, attracting everybody from joggers and strolling couples to kids attracted by the playground and skate park. An open air kiosk, Café Macaca, is a lovely spot for a cold drink and a snack under the shade of the trees.