2 Best Restaurants in Abrantes, Estremadura and the Ribatejo

In this warren of stone-flagged rooms, authentic regional dishes are served with flair to well-heeled patrons. Specialties at the old town spot include churrasquinho de porco preto com migas de alheira de caça (grilled meats from the acorn-fed Iberian black pig, served with a breadcrumb-and-garlic-sausage mixture flavored with game sausage), stewed partridge with creamed spinach, and shad from the Tagus River. Braver diners might try cabidela de galo (chicken cooked in blood) or lamprey, when it is in season.

"The Old Woman" is named for the owner of the tasca (cheap eatery) that once functioned here; it is now a smart, modern restaurant that pays homage to that tradition and retains many traces of its past (literally, in the case of sums chalked up on the walls), such as the seasoned tremoços (lupin seeds) you can nibble before your meal. The menu---devised by Michelin-starred chef Rodrigo Castelo---features delicious starters such as partridge escabeche and oxtail croquettes, as well as fresh fish from the Tagus River or its tributary, the Zézere, and slow-cooked meat dishes---all with tasty accompaniments such as creamy lemon rice or pickled red cabbage. For dessert, don't miss the velhoses---a classic fried sweet, here served with salted caramel and crisped cured ham.