Castelo de Almourol
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The oldest parts of the complex date to the 12th century, including the towering castle keep and the fortresslike, 16-sided charola, which—like many Templar churches—is patterned after the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem and has an octagonal oratory at its core. The paintings and wooden statues in its interior, however, were added in the 16th century. The complex's medieval nucleus acquired its Manueline church and cluster of magnificent cloisters during the next 500 years. To see what the late-Gothic Manueline style is all about, stroll through the church's nave with its many examples of the twisted ropes, seaweed, and nautical themes that typify the style, and be sure to look at the chapter house window, one of the most photographed in Europe.
The monastery, a masterly combination of Gothic and Manueline styles, was built between 1388 and 1533. Some 15 architects were involved in the project, but the principal architect was Afonso Domingues, whose portrait, carved in stone, graces the wall in the chapter house. In the great hall lie the remains of two unknown Portuguese soldiers who died in World War I: one in France, the other in Africa. Entombed in the center of the Founder's Chapel, beneath the star-shape, vaulted ceiling, is João de Avis, lying hand in hand with his English queen, Philippa of Lancaster. The tombs along the south and west walls are those of the couple's children, including Henry the Navigator. Perhaps the finest parts of the entire project are the Unfinished Chapels, seven chapels radiating off an octagonal rotunda, started by Dom Duarte in 1435 and left roofless owing to lack of funds. Note the intricately filigreed detail of the main doorway.
The graceful twin-tiered cloister at Alcobaça was added in the 14th and 16th centuries. The Kings Hall, just to the left of the main entrance, is lined with a series of 18th-century azulejos illustrating the construction of the monastery.
The first major fortification on what was the island of Peniche was built in the 16th century, and the Fortaleza de Peniche has played an important role in Portuguese history ever since. In the mid-20th century, the hulking fortress served as a prison for leading opponents of the New State dictatorship; in 1960, it was the site of a spectacular jail break, when Communist Party leader Alvaro Cunhal and a few of his comrades escaped from the high-security wing. This museum---created to tell the story of the prison in the context of the dictatorship, and to memorialize the resistance against it---opened in April 2024, half a century after the revolution that toppled that regime. A tour of its austere spaces and hard-hitting, informative displays will leave no one indifferent.
The Mafra National Palace and Convent, 8 km (5 miles) southeast of Ericeira, has been classified as UNESCO World Heritage since 2019. From the 17th through 19th centuries this was a favorite residence for the Portuguese court. In 1711, after nearly three years of a childless union with the Hapsburg queen, Maria Anna, a despairing King João V vowed that should the queen bear him an heir, he would build a monastery dedicated to St. Anthony. In December of that same year, a girl—later to become queen of Spain—was born; João's eventual heir, José I, was born three years later. True to his word, King João V built an enormous monastery, which still looms above the small farming community of Mafra. The original project—entrusted to the Italian-trained German architect Johann Friedrich Ludwig, invariably known in Portugal as João Frederico Ludovice—was to be a modest facility that could house 13 friars. Construction began in 1717 and continued until 1755, with the final result being a rectangular complex containing a monastery large enough for hundreds of monks as well as an imposing basilica and a grandiose palace that has been compared to El Escorial outside Madrid, Spain. The numbers involved in the construction are mind-boggling: at times 50,000 workers toiled. There are 4,500 doors and windows, 300 cells, 880 halls and rooms, and 154 stairways. Perimeter walls that total some 19 km (12 miles) surround the park.
The highlight of any visit to the monument is the magnificent baroque library: the barrel-vaulted, two-tiered hall holds almost 40,000 volumes of mostly 16th- through 18th-century works and a number of ancient maps. Protection from insects is provided by bats, which slip into the room at night through tiny holes that were bored through stone under the windows for the purpose. The basilica, which was patterned after St. Peter's in the Vatican, contains 11 chapels and six organs, which are played simultaneously for splendid concerts at 4 pm on the first Sunday of every month except January and February. At the time of writing the basilica is closed for renovation, so there are no organ concerts. However, the carillons—the world's largest ensemble, with 45 bells in the north tower, 53 in the south—are still played every Sunday, at 4 pm in winter and 5 pm in summer. When you're in the gilded throne room, notice the life-size renditions of the seven virtues, as well as the impressive figure of Hercules, by Domingos Sequeira. Guided visits may be booked in advance at an additional cost.
One of Portugal's most picturesque beaches is framed by steep cliffs and a fast-flowing stream. Strong tides can make the ocean here hazardous, but there are lifeguards on duty in summer. The beach itself bustles with sporting activity, and at night the village bars are lively. Some local houses have an alpine look, thanks to the availability of pine from the forests that blanket the Leiria region—which also makes for lovely fresh air. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: sunset; surfing; swimming; walking.
The 44,500-acre farmstead of Companhia das Lezírias—owned by the Portuguese state and one of the country's most profitable—is filled with forests of cork oaks, stone pines, and eucalyptus trees. Rice is also grown and sold under the "Belmonte" and "Bom Sucesso" labels, and the company does organic cattle farming and breeds prizewinning Lusitano stallions. Its winery, Adega de Catapereiro, 12 km (7½ miles) south of Samora Correia, has a shop and also offers guided visits with tastings of three wines and one olive oil, from €12 per person. Book ahead by phone or email [email protected].
In the 16th century, Filipe II of Spain became Filipe I of Portugal and also Master of the Order of Christ; to assure the supply of water to its headquarters in Tomar, he ordered a 6-km (4-mile) aqueduct built, with a total of 180 arches. They march right up to the walls of the Convent of Christ, but the most impressive portion, with two tiers of 58 arches, strides across the Vale dos Pegões valley, a 10-minute drive (or 50-minute walk) northwest of Tomar.
One of the largest Catholic churches in the world, seating some 8,500 worshipers, the Holy Trinity was consecrated in 2007 and raised to the state of basilica in 2012. Although it won prizes for engineering rather than architecture, its ample, curved form—designed by Greek architect Alexandros Tombazis—offers a pleasing contrast to its rather run-of-the-mill 1920s predecessor. Much of the iconography, including on the lavish main doors, was inspired by Byzantine and Orthodox motifs, and was produced by artists from Portugal and seven other countries. The Tall Cross crucifix outside the church is by the German artist Robert Schad.
At the head of the shrine's huge esplanade is the towering neoclassical basilica built in the late 1920s, flanked on either side by a semicircular peristyle. Inside you will find the tombs of all three of the "little shepherds" who reported seeing the Virgin Mary.
The harbor at Peniche is the jumping-off point for excursions to the Berlengas Archipelago: six islets that are a nesting place for many migratory birds and a favorite spot for anglers and divers. Berlenga Grande, the largest of the group, is the site of a pretty lighthouse and the Forte de São João Baptista, a 17th-century fortress built to defend the area from pirates. There are trails around the island, including through caves. You can visit the islands by boat but, under a system introduced in 2022 to limit visitor numbers to 550 per day, you first need a €3 permit. Register on the website berlengaspass.icnf.pt to buy a permit (several hours in advance, as it takes some time to be delivered). Boats fill up quickly in high season, so before buying the permit, first check availability with ferry company Viamar ( viamar-berlenga.com), which runs the 185-seat Cabo Avelar Pessoa once or twice a day from mid-May through September, or with one of the other companies that organize private trips year-round (all are listed on the Berlengas Pass website). It's a notoriously choppy crossing, so you may want to take something for motion sickness. The main island has a visitor center, a restaurant and bar, and a small guesthouse; it is also possible to camp or even stay in the fortress if you book ahead.
Just about the last thing you'd expect to find in rural Estremadura—about 10 minutes south of Óbidos—this landscaped "Garden of Peace" was inspired by the destruction in 2001 by the Afghanistan Taliban of the giant Buddhas of Bamiyan—one of which is reproduced here. Buddhas of various shapes and sizes dot the lawns and surrounding forest, as well as carved gates, dragons, and hundreds of figures from China's ancient Terracotta Army. There are also sculptures by leading contemporary artists. It all makes for a lovely place to stroll (you can also opt for the hop-on, hop-off miniature train, for an extra €6). There's an eatery serving decent Portuguese food and a shop selling wines from the adjoining Quinta dos Loridos estate; two wines are always available for a free tasting.
This tiny chapel—now ringed by benches and covered by a much larger modern canopy—was built in 1920 on the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared. A plinth with a statue of the Virgin marks the exact spot. Gifts, mostly wax reproductions of body parts, are burned nearby as offerings to the Virgin in the hope of achieving a miraculous cure.
The prestigious Casa Cadaval winery on the Herdade de Muge estate, between Benavente and Almeirim. has belonged to the Alvares Pereira Melo family since 1648. It produces red, white, and rosé wines under the Casa Cadaval, Marquesa de Cadaval, and Padre Pedro labels, using native grape varieties and some international ones, such as Pinot Noir. The store is open every day, but you must book ahead by phone or email [email protected] for a wine tasting, a ride out on a Lusitano horse, or a more extensive tour of the estate, in all cases followed by lunch.
Alpiarça is a pleasant little town 7 km (4 miles) northeast of Almeirim on the N118. Here you'll have the chance to see how a wealthy country gentleman lived at the beginning of the 20th century. The Casa dos Patudos, now a museum, was the estate of José Relvas, a diplomat and prosperous local farmer. This unusual three-story manor house with its zebra-stripe spire is surrounded by gardens and vineyards and is filled with an impressive assemblage of ceramics, paintings, and furnishings—including Portugal's foremost collection of Arraiolos carpets.
These are the two cottages in the nearby hamlet of Aljustrel, where the three shepherd children who reported seeing the Virgin Mary were born. To reach them, from Fátima's Rotunda Sul (south roundabout) take the N360 to Aljustrel for just over 1 km (½ mile) and turn right onto Rua dos Pastorinhos, then follow the parking signs ("parque ligeiros"). The two houses—Lúcia's and that of her two cousins—are a 5-minute walk apart; their simple interiors aim to give visitors some idea of what life was like in those times, while displaying some of the children's personal items.
Walk up through the maze of narrow, flower-lined streets to this 16th-century castle, later used as a military fortress, and which is still an impressive structure today. A deconsecrated Gothic church within its walls, the Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo, houses the tombs of members of the Almeida family, the leading local nobility. The garden outside the castle, to the right of the entrance, with its panoramic views, is a wonderful place to watch the sun set or enjoy an evening picnic.
Built in 1135 by Afonso Henriques (later Portugal's first king), Leiria Castle was to become an important link in the chain of defenses along what was then the southern border of the Kingdom of Portugal. When the Moors were driven from the region, the castle lost its significance and lay dormant until the early 14th century, when it was restored and modified and became the favorite residence of Dom Dinis and his queen, Isabel of Aragon. Within the perimeter walls you'll encounter the ruins of a Gothic church, the castle keep, and—built into the section of the fortifications overlooking the town—the New Palace, built in the late 15th century by João I, founder of the Avis dynasty. With this addition the castle became more of a royal residence than a fortress and remains one of the loveliest structures of its kind in Portugal. Lined by eight arches, its balcony affords lovely views.
A prize-winning refurbishment concluded in 2021 saw displays in the small museum revamped and a funicular installed on the north flank of the castle, as well as new walkways around it—smoothing visits for people with reduced mobility. Alternatively, on the south flank of the hill, just beyond the Sé (Cathedral), an elevator takes you part of the way up.
Built in the 12th century, this hilltop medieval castle has been reinforced and reconstructed several times throughout the centuries, with the last repairs done in the 1980s. The cement recovered from the cisterns and various coins on display in the municipal museum in town attest to the presence of the Roman occupation here. The castle exhibits both Gothic and Manueline styles in its exterior walls, and a medieval cemetery once existed where the church of Santa Maria stands. While exploring the towers, don't miss out on the incredible views of the city and surrounding valley and hills.
About 3 km (2 miles) south of Batalha's world-renowned monastery, this small museum is a project of the foundation of the same name, created to preserve and enhance understanding of the history surrounding the São Jorge battlefield. The main focus of the exhibition area (with labels in English) is on the 1385 military engagement that—with the crucial aid of English longbowmen—conclusively established Portugal's sovereignty, but it also documents conflicts with Spain from the early Middle Ages through the early 15th century. There are free audio guides in English and several other languages; the visit includes an engaging multimedia show scheduled at 11:30 am and at 1:30, 3, and 4:30 pm. If you plan on visiting both the center and battlefield, set aside an hour and a half.
Lourinhã, a small town about halfway between Torres Vedras and Peniche, claims the title "Land of the Dinosaurs" because of the rich paleontological finds made in the area's sea cliffs. Since 2018, Lourinhã has been home to the Dino Park, Portugal's largest outdoor museum and a fun attraction for families with kids. Along with 180 life-size models of different species—including several discovered locally and named after the town—there are impressive fossil displays and labs where you can take a closer look at tools and techniques used by paleontologists. Buy tickets online for a discount.
One of the region's best small winemakers, Encosta da Quinta is known above all for a prize-winning organic red that goes by the earthy name of Humus. To arrange a visit to the estate outside of town (parts of which date back to the 16th century), ending with a tasting with five organic wines—a combination of whites, rosés, or reds, according to visitors' preference—and regional cheeses, all for €30, email [email protected] well in advance.
About 19 km (12 miles) southwest of Constância is the town of Golegã, one of Portugal's most notable horse-breeding centers. During the first two weeks of November, this is the site of the colorful Feira Nacional do Cavalo, the most important event of its kind in the country, staged for the past 250 years. It has riding displays, horse and trap competitions, and stalls that sell handicrafts.
Like a real-life Willy Wonka chocolate factory but even bigger, the outdoor feast that is the annual Festival de Chocolate attracts more than 200,000 people to Óbidos in March and April. There are tons of things to do and see, like an annual chocolate sculpture contest done by locally renowned chefs. Along with the many stands selling all kinds of delicious chocolate goodies, many local restaurants offer chocolate-theme menus.
Many travelers make a beeline for this 16th-century fort—which since 1903 has also served as a lighthouse—as the ideal vantage point for watching the waves that attract the world's best surfers. The structure also houses a small surf museum, whose displays include fascinating explanations of how the offshore Nazaré Canyon enables the waves to form. It's a steep walk down from Sítio (and back up), but there are usually tuk tuks or shared transport standing by.
On a hill just north of the city, Forte de São Vicente was the first of 152 redoubts built on the Duke of Wellington's orders to form three defensive lines between the Atlantic Ocean and the Tagus, to protect Lisbon from possible invasion by French troops. Since 2017, it has housed a small visitor center for these Lines of Torres Vedras, with fascinating displays such as a model of the system used to communicate between forts.
The hills to the south and west of Fátima are honeycombed with limestone caves. Legend has it that many years ago, a wealthy man carrying a bag of coins was traveling through the woods when he was attacked by a gang of thieves. Struggling from the attack, the man fell into one of the grottoes. Through the cave, the lost coins were spread around, thus giving the Grutas da Moeda, 3 km (2 miles) from Fátima, their name. It's a 10-minute drive from the shrine; if you lack wheels, you can phone or Whatsapp them and they will pick you from Fátima. Within about a 25-km (15-mile) radius of the town are four other major caverns—São Mamede, Alvados, Santo António, and Mira de Aire ( grutasmiradaire.com/en), the country's largest—equipped with lights and elevators. On a guided tour in any of these (for a minimum of two people; ask for an English-speaking guide) you can see the subterranean world of limestone formations, underground rivers and lakes, and multicolor stalagmites and stalactites.