4 Best Restaurants in Intendente, Martim Moniz, and Mouraria, Lisbon

A critical darling and a popular favorite, this Portuguese-with-a-twist restaurant had a line out the door almost as soon as it opened; it's the sort of place other chefs go on their days off. A team of young chefs is turning out classic regional dishes to a soundtrack of rock and roll in a resolutely casual dining room. The chalkboard menu changes constantly but often includes "advanced" Portuguese dishes like chicken gizzards and rice flavored with blood. Reservations (far in advance) are mandatory.

One of the city's best tascas (traditional no-frills restaurants), O Zé da Mouraria features hearty traditional fare every lunchtime. It's a simple place but the servings are large enough to share, the wine list is decent, and the food is an excellent value.

Located in a former pizzeria of the same name, Tasca Baldracca serves contemporary takes on Portuguese classics with a heavy accent from the chef's native Brazil. The vibe is youthful and playful—the antithesis of fine dining—with chalkboard menus, heavily graffitied bathrooms, and rock music on the sound system. While the menu doesn't shy away from meats, there's always a fully realized vegetarian dish or two.

You'll probably need to wait on the stairs outside for a table and then perch on benches or at tightly packed tables, but it's worth the wait for the excellent Portuguese dishes served at this small neighborhood tasca. The menu changes daily with a selection of fish and meat options.