12 Best Restaurants in Alfama, Lisbon

Marlene Vieira made history in 2025 as the first female chef in Portugal to earn a Michelin star, and the open kitchen at her eponymous fine-dining restaurant showcases the skills that wowed the judges. Choose from refined 9 and 12-course tasting menus that spotlight fresh seafood (the menu can be adapted for vegetarians, but not vegans, with 48 hours' notice), seasonal produce, and bold, inventive flavors. Next door, Zunzum Gastrobar offers a more informal  opportunity to sample Vieira's culinary creations. It earned a Bib Gourmand for its creative small plates and excellent price-to-quality ratio.

The terrace at the chic Memmo Alfama Hotel has some of the neighborhood's best views. The menu centers around tapas-style small plates—the selection of Portuguese cheeses and meats, served with a basket of fresh-baked bread, is a good place to start.

A group of young locals took over this traditional tasca in 2019 and gave it a second life, adding O Velho to the name as a nod to the old man who used to run the place. They still specialize in homemade Portuguese dishes but with a contemporary touch. Highlights include the lamb croquette and the duck rice.

Run by visual artist Luis Carballo (whose studio is in nearby Marvila), this modern version of the traditional Portuguese tasca is an informal space where everyone seems to start off with a gin and tonic—there's a dedicated gin bar. The kitchen turns out delicious plates like black rice with cuttlefish or braised tuna that are the perfect size to share.

Take a seat beneath twisting grapevines for drinks and snacks at one of the most inviting terraces in Alfama. The menu is strong on fresh ingredients and healthier versions of fast-food favorites, prepared with care. There are vegetarian and gluten-free versions of many of the most popular items on the menu, including hemp fried chicken (the veggie version is made with cauliflower) and a signature burger served in bolo do caco (a sweet-potato bread hailing from Madeira).

Known as a wild child among the relentlessly traditional neighborhood dining spots, you'll hear indie rock instead of fado at Boi-Cavalo and experience a menu that features unusual Portuguese products like mackerel with pickles and green beans–rice with pine nuts. The chef uses his kitchen as a lab for experiments with these oddball products, pairing them with Asian and other international influences. The short creative tasting menu changes weekly.

The food at the café at the Teatro Taborda is nothing unusual—standard sandwiches, salads, and the like—but they have lovely views of the city. It sometimes hosts jazz concerts, poetry sessions, and recitals.

Don't let the name fool you: this sophisticated restaurant serves a menu that is largely Portuguese—there's plenty of codfish, octopus, and grilled Portuguese meats—but also includes Italian appetizers and pastas (and the occasional head-scratcher like chicken samosas).

One of the most eye-catching buildings in Alfama also houses one of its best refined hideaways. The tearoom in this lavish palace-turned-hotel is open to the public, and it's a great place for a spot of tea—the real deal, from Gorreana in Portugal's Azores—or a brunch fit for royalty with cheeses, fruits, eggs, cakes, and house-made marmalades.

You’ll likely walk past this pastry shop on your way to the castle; step inside to see bakers whipping up a fresh batch of pastéis de nata.

Head to this spot for light meals and cocktails against a jaw-droppingly beautiful backdrop. The menu is split between sunrise and sunset, though this is one for the late risers, as breakfast only starts at 10 am. Expect your typical eggs Benedict alongside more traditional treats like sardine toast or tempura green beans.

Huge stone arches and a beautiful mural made of azulejo tiles grace this charming restaurant. Light Portuguese dishes are prepared with love and beautifully presented, and the cocktail list is impressive, too.