Galeria Zé dos Bois
This gallery-cum-performing arts venue remains one of the hippest addresses in the city, three decades after it was founded as a cultural nonprofit. Both the bookshop and exhibition space, which hosts stimulating contemporary art shows and cutting-edge talks, often in English, are open 6–10 pm. After that, there are usually concerts of experimental music in a rather claustrophobic performance space. On warm nights, head up to the ultra-laid-back rooftop bar, which occasionally serves as an open-air cinema.