Casa Melo Alvim
The Manueline facade, stone-flagged reception, and massive staircase testify to the fact that this 16th-century former aristocratic abode in the center of Viana is the city's oldest extant house. In addition to the classically decorated rooms in the main building, which all have bathtubs, there are five modern apartments with walk-in showers. On site there's a bar with a piano---where the generous buffet breakfast is also laid out---as well as a cozy library with a huge fireplace. Out back, a walled garden contains a small pool, with direct access from the upstairs suites. The same building houses a branch of Portuguese craft beer chain Letraria, which serves burgers and other well-priced snacks and mains until late.