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Despite its renown as a shopping street, Princes Street in the New Town may disappoint some visitors with its dull modern architecture, average chain stores, and fast-food outlets. One block north of Princes Street, Rose Street has many smaller specialty shops; part of the street is a pedestrian zone, so it's a pleasant place to browse. The shops on George Street in New Town tend to be fairly upscale. London names, such as Laura Ashley and Penhaligons, are prominent, though some of the older independent stores continue to do good business.
The streets crossing George Street—Hanover, Frederick, and Castle—are also worth exploring. Dundas Street, the northern extension of Hanover Street, beyond Queen Street Gardens, has several antiques shops. Thistle Street, originally George Street's "back lane," or service area, has several boutiques and more antiques shops.
As may be expected, many shops along the Royal Mile in Old Town sell what may be politely or euphemistically described as "touristware"—whiskies, tartans, and tweeds. Careful exploration, however, will reveal some worthwhile establishments, including shops that cater to highly specialized interests and hobbies. A street below the Royal Mile, East Market Street, close to the castle end of the Royal Mile, just off George IV Bridge, is Victoria Street, with specialty shops grouped in a small area. Follow the tiny West Bow to Grassmarket for more specialty stores.
Stafford and William Streets form a small, upscale shopping area in a Georgian setting. Walk to the west end of Princes Street and then along its continuation, Shandwick Place, then turn right onto Stafford Street. William Street crosses Stafford halfway down.
North of Princes Street, on the way to the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, is Stockbridge, an oddball shopping area of some charm, particularly on St. Stephen Street. To get here, walk north down Frederick Street and Howe Street, away from Princes Street, then turn left onto North West Circus Place.
Edinburgh's newest (and hippest) shopping area is The Arches, which has a number of glass-fronted independent stores set within Victorian-era archways. You'll find it on East Market Street, to the east of Waverley train station and below the Royal Mile. And coming in 2020 is the refurbished Edinburgh St. James, a vast, state-of-the-art shopping complex being built between Princes Street and Leith Walk.
Jenners, a long-standing Edinburgh landmark that is now part of the U.K.-wide House of Fraser chain, specializes in traditional china and glassware, as well as Scottish tweeds and tartans—though you'll find everything else you'd expect from a large department store, too. Its famous food hall, run by Valvona & Crolla, stocks traditional culinary delights including shortbread, marmalade, and honey.
Affectionately known as Harvey Nicks, this high-style British fashion chain has its Scottish outpost on St. Andrew Square, carrying the store's chic, upscale style options. Feeling peckish? Enjoy a meal with a view at the excellent Forth Floor Brasserie and Bar.
John Lewis specializes in furnishings and household goods, but also stocks designer clothes. It's part of the recently refurbished St. James Quarter. The top-floor features a restaurant, The Place to Eat, with so-so food and drinks, but the seated views are wonderful.
Fairly priced, stylish clothes and accessories are on offer at Marks & Spencer. You can also buy quality food and household goods.
