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For years Geneva's restaurants dished up menus heavily reliant on French, German, and northern Italian fare. Increasingly, there's a more international spin to the city's dining scene with Japanese, Peruvian, Indian, and Nordic cuisine popping up with fanfare. Tapas-style grazing menus have become as common as those offering five-course meals, and signature restaurants run by well-known chefs as prevalent as casual burger joints.
Although dress-code days are gone, casual elegance is the rule of thumb. Hours for meals generally remain noon to 2 pm and 7 to 9:30 or 10 pm; pubs, bars, and clubs satisfy hungry night owls. And yes, after the stores close on Saturday afternoon, Geneva's city center is virtually dormant—and most, but by no means all, restaurants close. That's because the Genevois spend their weekends eating at country inns and village cafés.
Geneva restaurants (and bars and clubs) are all nonsmoking. Some are now charging for the carafe d'eau (tap water). Since it is not local custom to take small children to better restaurants, amenities (and welcome) may be poor if you arrive with babies in tow. Tipping? Local diners may leave the change as a gesture when they leave, but tipping for exceptional service is up to the customer and is still the exception, not the rule.
The "Années Folles" decor—green-and-white tiles, mustard-yellow ceilings, warm wood—and busy waiters in ankle-length aprons channel Paris. Local diners of all stripes come to tuck into hearty portions tartares of beef or fish, filet de boeuf (steak), and heaping platters of seafood. The dining room expands onto a delightful summer terrace at the foot of the Vieille Ville.
Built in 1827, this sprawling lakeside chalet set amid magnificently manicured public parks comes dramatically into its own in summer. Although the wine list is good and the French-accented seasonal cuisine competent, if it's haute gastronomy you're after, don't come here; this place is about location, location, location. Pink tablecloths and hanging geraniums frame an unobstructed view of Mont Blanc, and the glassed-in Orangerie is a rainy-day alternative to the covered terrace. An excellent compromise on a nice day is to come for a coffee or a plat du jour at lunch on what they call the "brasserie terrace." The Mouettes Genevoises water taxis dock directly out front.
A robust Swiss menu has made this Vieille Ville institution a magnet for local street sweepers, foreign heads of state, and everyone in between. Before tucking into a fondue or raclette (melted cheese served with small potatoes in their skins, pickled pearl onions, and gherkins), order a starter of air-dried meat cut paper thin—a specialty of the canton of Grisons. Other choices include Schübling (sausage) or veal strips in cream sauce: both come with sinfully delicious Rösti, a buttery cake of grated potatoes. In the summer you can sit outdoors and soak up the Old Town's historic vibe.
