13 Best Sights in Condesa, Mexico City

An elliptical avenue that feels like it could be in Paris or Madrid minus the unusually lush semitropical foliage, Amsterdam was designed in the early 1900s as the outer perimeter of a racetrack that would eventually become Parque México. Today it's among the best streets in the city for a stroll. The two lanes of auto traffic are divided by a landscaped median with a paved sidewalk, old-fashioned street lamps, and a smattering of art nouveau tiled benches. There are three roundabouts connecting Amsterdam, each named for one of the city's cloud-scraping peaks: Popocatépetl, Iztaccihuatl, and Citlaltépetl. This is also one of the best streets for admiring the neighborhood's distinctive residential architectural, from ornate art deco and art nouveau beauties to strikingly contemporary mid-rise towers. Although predominantly residential, the ground floors of many of these buildings contain hip coffeehouses, ice-cream shops, bistros, and bars, along with a handful of noteworthy boutique shops. The avenue completely encircles Parque México, and at the northwestern side of the ellipse, you can walk from Parque México just two blocks along restaurant-lined Avendia Parras to reach Parque España.

Bold colors, lines, and innovative designs are among the most ubiquitous features of Mexico City architecture, and this modernist approach can in large part be traced to Luis Barragán, who lived and worked in this home—now designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—from the year he built it (1947) until his death in 1988. The architect's singular aesthetic is apparent throughout the house: in the angular staircases, sharp angles, ample natural light, and bold colored accent walls. Visits are by self-guided or guided tours, both of which must be purchased by advance reservation. Book online, and keep in mind that tour slots open roughly a month in advance and sell out almost immediately, so plan accordingly. Tickets are also quite expensive, and it costs an extra 500 pesos for permission to take photos. Across the street from the house is a small, peaceful garden with chairs, a reflection pool, lush foliage, and restrooms---this serves as a waiting area before tours begin, although it's free and open to the public (as is the museum's excellent bookstore), and it's a pleasant spot to take a break. The easiest route to the house is via the pedestrian pathway and stairs that border the highway, leading from the Constituyentes Metro station.

Renowned architect Alberto Kalach (of Biblioteca Vasconcelos fame) converted this former lumber yard into an internationally acclaimed contemporary art gallery in San Miguel Chapultepec, using polished wood, cement floors, and a curving metal-plated spiral staircase to set a dramatic stage for the well-attended exhibits. Often ranked among Latin America's most influential art spaces, Kurimanzutto represents about three dozen established and emerging talents and has a second location on New York City's Upper East Side. The on-site bookstore has a small but carefully curated collection of titles.

Condesa's other green lung, the 22-acre Parque México lies just southeast of its slightly smaller and slightly older sister, Parque España. Among its many enchanting features, you'll find a gracious duck pond, a large children's playground, fountains, a strikingly ornate art deco iron clocktower, and dozens of footpaths passing by emerald gardens, topiary shrubs, and towering specimen trees. The park was constructed in 1927 on the site of a former racetrack, which explains the circular road, Avenida México, looping its perimeter and the name of the colonia in which its officially located, Hipódromo (hippodrome) Condesa. The park is lined with handsome buildings, including some of the best examples of art deco in the city. Dozens of cafés, taquerias, and bars are within a couple of blocks of the park, making it a great spot to enjoy a casual bite to eat.

Just a few blocks from Casa Estudio Luis Barragán, you'll find the famed architect's final design project. This narrow, deep house looks modest from the street, but its light-pink facade hints at something interesting within. Indeed, a tour of this house that Barragán constructed in 1976, well after he'd retired professionally, reveals many of the trademark features that characterize his design approach: boldly colored walls, geometrically shaped windows that allow light to filter in at interesting angles, and a stunning back patio anchored by a jacaranda tree. There's also an almost miragelike indoor swimming pool. A visit here is a must for devotees of Barragán, but anyone with an interest in design will enjoy a tour. Because the occupants of the house still reside here (their son gives the tours), visiting does require a little effort: advance reservations are required (you must call or email), and tours are offered only twice a day on weekdays and once on Saturday morning.

Founded in 1935 and set in a beautifully restored house from that period, the GAM was the first place in Mexico City dedicated full-time to the sale and promotion of art. It's played an important role in many Mexican art movements since then and continues to support the country's most important artists. GAM also publishes an impressive catalog of books, which are available at the gallery's bookstore.

One of the most respected galleries in the neighborhood, RGR occupies a striking, angular concrete building with ample space for hosting the exhibitions of often large-scale works by contemporary Latin American artists. Begun in Venezuela in 2012, the gallery has become increasingly acclaimed---it's been in its current home since 2018.

In this building painted in boldly colored abstract designs, shutterbugs and admirers of art photography can take classes and workshops, view contemporary gallery shows, and peruse the extensive selection of photography books.

About 20 esteemed contemporary artists show at this spacious, airy gallery across the street from both Casa Estudio Luis Barragán. Like its neighbor, the gallery is a prominent work of Mexican modernist design, having been built in 1948 by functionalist architect Enrique del Moral, who resided here for many years. Both solo and group shows usually run for a couple of months, and the openings always draw a cadre of big names in the art world. The adjoining gardens, with benches and tables, are a relaxing spot to take a break from art viewing.

Established in 1999 within the walls of a dramatic church that was part of a 17th-century monastery (most of which is now occupied by a military installation across the street), this free and rather underrated museum tells the story of Mexico's history, its formation into a republic, and even aspects of its demographics and economics (there are hydrography and mining maps, for example) through a series of maps and even more ancient codices that date back to the early days of New Spain. These documents cover the walls of the entire domed structure, and in the transept there's also a display of map-making equipment, from antique sextants to clunky GPS devices from the early 2000s. Signage is in both Spanish and English. Ironically (or perhaps as some sort of cosmic joke), using the map on your phone to get to this museum on the western edge of Tacabuya—just a 15-minute walk from Condesa—can be a bit tricky. The museum sits in the middle of a fenced-in island of sorts, surrounded by busy two-lane roads on all sides; to get in, go to the intersection of Anillo Periférico and Avenida Observatorio and go through the unmarked pedestrian underpass, which leads to a small plaza in front of the museum.

Like nearby Parque México, this slightly smaller but no less alluring 16½ acre urban oasis was laid out in the early 1920s by architect José Luis Cuevas, who was also responsible for planning much of the surrounding Hipódromo section of the Condesa neighborhood. It opened officially in September 1921, during the centennial celebrations of the Mexican War of Independence. A focal point of Parque España is the dramatic, modern sculpture and fountain installed in 1974 in honor of statesman and Mexican Revolutionary General Lázaro Cárdenas. It's a figurative depiction of the outstretched palm of then President Cárdenas, welcoming Republican refugees of the Spanish Civil to Mexico during the late 1930s. Both the statue and the park in general are popular places to sit with a book or watch locals strolling with their dogs. It's filled with flower beds, native shrubs, a small pond, and a playground.

This hilly green space on the border of San Miguel Chapultepec and Tacubaya includes a maze of tree- and shrub-lined pathways as well as one of the largest children's playgrounds close to Condesa. The central fountain, beside a pergola with a massive bougainvillea tree looming over it, is a lovely place to sip coffee, read a book, or chat with friends. Adjacent to the park's southeast corner, you'll find Museo Casa de Bola ( www.museoshaghenbeck.mx/museo-casa-de-la-bola), which is open by appointment only or during special events (it's a popular wedding venue). The magnificent 16th-century villa belonged to San José de Tacubaya, and its 13 ornately decorated rooms are filled with fine European (predominantly French) tapestries, finery, decorative objects, and furniture that dates over the past few centuries

The main draw of this gallery with spare, angular exhibit rooms is that it's one of the only art spaces in Mexico City with a primary focus on contemporary photography. About 30 artists show here regularly, and there are about six to eight temporary shows throughout the year.