4 Best Sights in Condesa, Mexico City

An elliptical avenue that feels like it could be in Paris or Madrid minus the unusually lush semitropical foliage, Amsterdam was designed in the early 1900s as the outer perimeter of a racetrack that would eventually become Parque México. Today it's among the best streets in the city for a stroll. The two lanes of auto traffic are divided by a landscaped median with a paved sidewalk, old-fashioned street lamps, and a smattering of art nouveau tiled benches. There are three roundabouts connecting Amsterdam, each named for one of the city's cloud-scraping peaks: Popocatépetl, Iztaccihuatl, and Citlaltépetl. This is also one of the best streets for admiring the neighborhood's distinctive residential architectural, from ornate art deco and art nouveau beauties to strikingly contemporary mid-rise towers. Although predominantly residential, the ground floors of many of these buildings contain hip coffeehouses, ice-cream shops, bistros, and bars, along with a handful of noteworthy boutique shops. The avenue completely encircles Parque México, and at the northwestern side of the ellipse, you can walk from Parque México just two blocks along restaurant-lined Avendia Parras to reach Parque España.

Bold colors, lines, and innovative designs are among the most ubiquitous features of Mexico City architecture, and this modernist approach can in large part be traced to Luis Barragán, who lived and worked in this home—now designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—from the year he built it (1947) until his death in 1988. The architect's singular aesthetic is apparent throughout the house: in the angular staircases, sharp angles, ample natural light, and bold colored accent walls. Visits are by self-guided or guided tours, both of which must be purchased by advance reservation. Book online, and keep in mind that tour slots open roughly a month in advance and sell out almost immediately, so plan accordingly. Tickets are also quite expensive, and it costs an extra 500 pesos for permission to take photos. Across the street from the house is a small, peaceful garden with chairs, a reflection pool, lush foliage, and restrooms---this serves as a waiting area before tours begin, although it's free and open to the public (as is the museum's excellent bookstore), and it's a pleasant spot to take a break. The easiest route to the house is via the pedestrian pathway and stairs that border the highway, leading from the Constituyentes Metro station.

Renowned architect Alberto Kalach (of Biblioteca Vasconcelos fame) converted this former lumber yard into an internationally acclaimed contemporary art gallery in San Miguel Chapultepec, using polished wood, cement floors, and a curving metal-plated spiral staircase to set a dramatic stage for the well-attended exhibits. Often ranked among Latin America's most influential art spaces, Kurimanzutto represents about three dozen established and emerging talents and has a second location on New York City's Upper East Side. The on-site bookstore has a small but carefully curated collection of titles.

Condesa's other green lung, the 22-acre Parque México lies just southeast of its slightly smaller and slightly older sister, Parque España. Among its many enchanting features, you'll find a gracious duck pond, a large children's playground, fountains, a strikingly ornate art deco iron clocktower, and dozens of footpaths passing by emerald gardens, topiary shrubs, and towering specimen trees. The park was constructed in 1927 on the site of a former racetrack, which explains the circular road, Avenida México, looping its perimeter and the name of the colonia in which its officially located, Hipódromo (hippodrome) Condesa. The park is lined with handsome buildings, including some of the best examples of art deco in the city. Dozens of cafés, taquerias, and bars are within a couple of blocks of the park, making it a great spot to enjoy a casual bite to eat.