3 Best Restaurants in Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland

Guanajuato natives and newbies in the know head to this family-run Santa Rosa hideaway for homemade dishes in a country atmosphere. The setting is rustic, with simple tile floors, metal folding chairs, and plain tablecloths, but the fresh, home-style chiles rellenos and chicken in mole more than make up for it. House specialties are mixiote de borrego (lamb baked in foil and served in a rich broth) and cecina seca de res (air-dried beef), both served with frijoles, salsas, guacamole, and fresh tortillas. It's an excellent place for breakfast, lunch, or a (very) early dinner en route to shopping at Mayolicas Santa Rosa. A few hundred yards off the highway, along a dirt road, it's about 15 to 20 minutes northeast of La Valenciana, en route to Dolores Hidalgo. Look for small signs announcing "Cabaña de Lolita" and "Puente de Barrilito."

As you sit at umbrella-shaded tables in a gracious courtyard framed by bougainvillea, serenaded by Mexican music, you'll be transported back to a simpler Mexico. The margaritas are good, and the menu is interesting, from a well-developed pozole verde (a rich soup made with hominy) to juicy cochinita pibíl (pork baked in banana leaf) with black beans and the traditional pickled onions. The enchiladasMéxico Lindo and enchiladas mineras are also crowd-pleasers. The restaurant is out in the quiet residential neighborhood of La Presa de la Olla, a nice neighborhood for a walk, and it opens at 9 am for breakfast if you're out early.

It can get chilly in winter; make sure to wear warm clothing.

Totally local yet beloved by visitors, this place is the real deal, morning, noon, and night. Multigenerational Mexican families dine among a spattering of granola-crunchy tourists, all comfortably ensconced within several chummy spaces. At breakfast, egg dishes reign supreme, and enfrijoladas (corn tortillas layered with refried beans, cheese, and sour cream) are an excellent choice. It's also hard to go wrong with the traditional lunch plates, which include enmoladas (tortillas bathed in mole sauce and baked), enchiladas (the same, but in a spicier sauce), and chicken dishes. It's open later than most spots in town.