2 Best Hotels in Morelia, San Miguel de Allende and the Heartland

Built in 1565 for a Spanish nobleman, this downtown hotel radiates the aura of a bygone era. A massive stained-glass skylight casts a warm glow over an elegant lobby lounge fitted with an enormous stone fireplace and stiff-looking but surprisingly comfy couches. Guest rooms have dark colonial-style furnishings, lace curtains, soaring ceilings, creaking hardwood floors, and bathrooms with porcelain tubs. You can mingle with the locals at the popular sidewalk tables over a coffee, cocktail, or a meal. Make sure to get a room with a window facing outdoors, as some face only the lobby.

French count Philippe de Reiset fitted this villa with all the trappings of an informal Mexican estate. High above Morelia in the Santa María hills, its five impeccably groomed acres are studded with stone sculptures, although the rooms themselves are less impressive. Each unit has at least one piece of antique furniture, and most have a fireplace and private patio, but the furnishings are rather clunky and plain. The hotel's restaurant serves North American, French, and Mexican cuisine (but these don't get rave reviews); from its huge windows you'll have a marvelous view of Morelia, especially at night.