5 Best Bars in Santa Teresa and Lapa, Rio de Janeiro

Officially Armazem São Thiago, this neighborhood institution is universally referred to by its nickname, Bar do Gomez, in honor of the late owner whose family has run the business for close to 100 years. Pictures documenting the bar's history adorn the high wooden walls, and surveying the scene in the present, you get the pleasant impression that little has changed over the years. The draft beer flows like water, locals swap stories at the long wooden bar, and new friendships are forged at the outdoor drinking posts. Favorites among the bar snacks include the giant olives, a pastrami sandwich, and the shrimp plate. Early on a Friday night, this is a good place to strike up a conversation with locals before heading down the hill to Lapa.

A favorite among local sambistas (samba musicians) and a great spot to listen to live samba in a comfortable environment, Carioca da Gema is one of Lapa's liveliest spots, with talented musicians performing seven nights a week. By 11 pm, finding a place to stand can be difficult, but regulars still find a way to samba. Call ahead and book a table if you're keener to be a spectator. There's a good pizzeria downstairs.

On paying your entrance fee, you're given a white paper card where all food and drinks are noted and your bill's paid at the cashier at the end of the night. Don't lose it; it's your ticket out at the end of the night!

A great venue in an excellent location right by the Lapa arches, Circo Voador hosts club nights during the week, but it's the varied live shows that really stand out, with a big stage set under a huge open-sided circular tent and room for up to 1,500 people to dance the night away.

Check the website for a regular roster of international acts and local stars.

For one of the most authentic samba experiences in town, head to Monday night's live roda de samba in Pedra do Sal. Located in a residential pocket in the docklands neighborhood of Saúde, crowds of samba-loving locals gather round a central circle of musicians who jam late into the night. The story goes that this spot marks the birthplace of samba in Rio de Janeiro and there is a really tangible sense of living heritage here. Although the vibe is welcoming and friendly and crime is minimal, go without valuables and little in your pockets so you can relax into the experience. Ice-cold beers and caipirinhas can be bought from surrounding bars and vendors. During summer months, this also takes place on Fridays and is a great spot to kick off a night out, with crowds gathering from around 8 pm. The roda is cancelled in the event of rain.

Despite the hordes of samba-seeking tourists, Rio Scenarium somehow manages to retain its authenticity and magic. This is partly due to the incredible setting—a former movie props warehouse still crammed to the rafters with old instruments, bikes, furniture, and puppets—but also to the great bands and persevering locals who love to show off their moves and entice novices onto the dance floor. On weekends arrive before 9 pm to avoid the lines, or call ahead and book a table. If you prefer a daytime visit, they offer a feijoada every Saturday at lunchtime with live music.