11 Best Bars in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
It's sometimes said that cariocas would rather expend their energy on the beach and that nighttime is strictly for recharging their batteries and de-sanding their swimsuits, but witnessing the masses swarming into Lapa at 10 pm on a Friday night make this a tricky argument to endorse. New nightclubs and bars continue to sprout up with remarkable regularity, and there are cutting-edge underground rhythms and musical styles competing with samba, chorro, and Brazilian pop (MPB) for the locals' hearts.
A much-loved local pastime is drinking a well-chilled chopp (draft beer) and enjoying the lively atmosphere of a genuine Rio botequim (bar). Every neighborhood has its share of upmarket options (branches of Belmonte and Devassa are dotted around town), but no less enjoyable are the huge number of hole-in-the-wall spots offering ice-cold bottles of cerveja (beer) and the chance to chat with down-to-earth regulars.
Live music is nighttime Rio's raison d'être, with street corners regularly playing host to impromptu renditions. During Carnival the entire city can feel like one giant playground. The electronic-music scene is also very much alive, and the underground popularity of funk (the city's own X-rated genre, not to be confused with the James Brown version) is slowly seeping into the mainstream, down from the huge bailes or open-air parties held weekly in the city's favelas. In addition to samba and MPB, hip-hop, electronica, and rock can be heard in clubs around the city.
Bip Bip
Here the roda de samba—where musicians sit and play instruments around a central table (in fact the only table in this tiny bar)—is legendary, as is the help-yourself beer policy. The no-nonsense owner makes drink notations and keeps the crowd in check. The standards of the music here are as high as the bar is simple: big-name Brazilian musicians have been known to drop in for a jam session, and on weekend evenings the revelry often spills out onto the street.
Carioca da Gema
A favorite among local sambistas (samba musicians) and a great spot to listen to live samba in a comfortable environment, Carioca da Gema is one of Lapa's liveliest spots, with talented musicians performing seven nights a week. By 11 pm, finding a place to stand can be difficult, but regulars still find a way to samba. Call ahead and book a table if you're keener to be a spectator. There's a good pizzeria downstairs.
On paying your entrance fee, you're given a white paper card where all food and drinks are noted and your bill's paid at the cashier at the end of the night. Don't lose it; it's your ticket out at the end of the night!
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Circo Voador
A great venue in an excellent location right by the Lapa arches, Circo Voador hosts club nights during the week, but it's the varied live shows that really stand out, with a big stage set under a huge open-sided circular tent and room for up to 1,500 people to dance the night away.
Check the website for a regular roster of international acts and local stars.
Rio Scenarium
Despite the hordes of samba-seeking tourists, Rio Scenarium somehow manages to retain its authenticity and magic. This is partly due to the incredible setting—a former movie props warehouse still crammed to the rafters with old instruments, bikes, furniture, and puppets—but also to the great bands and persevering locals who love to show off their moves and entice novices onto the dance floor. On weekends arrive before 9 pm to avoid the lines, or call ahead and book a table. If you prefer a daytime visit, they offer a feijoada every Saturday at lunchtime with live music.
Baródromo
Everything in this themed bar---from the dishes to the decor---is inspired by samba celebrities and memorable parades held at Sambadrome. Don't forget to try dumplings like martinho (rice with cod) and the vegetarian selminha (cheese, sun-dried tomato, eggplant and zucchini), always accompanied by a cold beer and good live samba.
Beco do Rato
This little corner of Lapa brings together the city's best samba musicians in groups that go on all night long. Wear comfortable clothes and be prepared to spend hours standing and enjoying the music. Check the website for the monthly schedule and buy your ticket in advance.
Blue Note Rio
The iconic Blue Note has opened a branch in one of the most musical cities in the world, the birthplace of bossa nova. Every week, big names in Brazilian and international music perform in concerts. Check the updated schedule on the website before you go. The bar also participates in special events in the city, such as the LGBTQ+ parade and New Year's Eve, selling VIP seats.
Casa da Matriz
With its multiroom layout, old-school arcade games, and small junk shop, this shabby-chic venue has the look and feel of a house party. The club's youngish crowd appreciates the adventurous musical policy: don't be surprised if the DJ follows a 1960s Beatles track with down-and-dirty favela funk. It's closed Sunday to Tuesday.
Casa Rosa
A former brothel in a bright-pink mansion on the Laranjeiras hillside is now a hipster hot spot for live music and dancing. A young, casual chic crowd heads here at the weekend for open-air dancing, karaoke (something of a trend in Rio), samba, and occasional feijoada-fests.
Fosfobox
For the serious dance-music enthusiast, Fosfobox, in the heart of Copacabana, plays the best underground tunes, as well as rock and pop. Dancers cram onto the floor in the industrial-feeling basement, while an upstairs bar offers opportunity for conversation. It's closed on Monday and Tuesday.