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Dining in the Amazon is often an adventure in itself, with an abundance of ingredients that are rarely found outside the region. This is particularly true of giant Amazonian river fish, such as pirarucú, tambaqui, and tanadré, traditionally served with white rice and farofa de tucumã (palm fruit fried flour), or baio de dois (a bean salad from the Northeast). Where possible, sample freshly caught fish from the river, rather than the farmed variety; you’ll notice a big difference in flavor. Other highlights include caldinho de tucupi, jambu, e camarão, a regional delicacy made from manioc extract and mixed with a white glutonous gum and served with the spinach-like jambu leaf (which can turn the mouth numb). Exotic fruits, such as cupuaçu and tucumã, are ubiquitous in desserts and juices, as are excellent quality castanha de pará (cashew nuts), cultivated in the state of Pará.
Reservations and dressy attire are rarely needed in the Amazon (indeed, reservations are rarely taken). Tipping isn't customary except in finer restaurants. Call ahead on Monday night, when many establishments are closed.
To shake up the conservative cuisine scene on Macapá, the Salvador-born owner of Cantinho Baiano began cooking specialties from Bahia State. These dishes, especially the seafood moqueca (fried fish in vegetable, coconut milk, and dendê oil), are not to be missed. The excellent river view, soft music, and colorfully clad waiters add to the ambience.
Although the decor is clean and simple, the quality of the fish dishes speak for themselves—testament to which, it was chosen as the restaurant to host Pope John Paul II when he came to Manaus in 1981. Don't miss the house speciality caldeirada de tambaqui (tambaqui fish stew) and be sure to come hungry, as one platter comes with enough food for two people.
The green awning and red-and-white-check tablecloths are hints that this restaurant serves authentic Italian cuisine. Pasta dishes are delicious, especially the lasagna fiorentina (with a marinara and ground-beef sauce). A buffet is also available every day for lunch.
