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In the last decade, Fortaleza's gourmet scene has almost caught up with neighboring Recife. Stylish seafood restaurants set on the shore now compete with upmarket churrascarias (all-you-can-eat meat barbecues). At laid-back local spots, Brazilian dishes such as feijoada (pork and black bean stew) reign supreme alongside Fortaleza's specialty, baião-de-dois (seasoned rice and black beans served with soft cheese).
In a restored colonial house, Santa Grelha is off the tourist path and specializes in exceptional grilled meat and fish, served with legendary home-made farofa (roasted manioc flour). Black-suited waiters and a climatized wine cellar of more than 600 options add to the air of elegance.
