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Fortaleza is fairly easy to navigate on foot because its streets are laid out in a grid. Its business center lies above the Centro Histórico (Historic Center) and includes the main market, several shopping streets, and many government buildings. East of the center, urban beaches are lined with high-rise hotels and restaurants. Beyond are the port and old lighthouse, from which Praia do Futuro runs 5 km (3 miles) along Avenida Dioguinho. Be on guard against pickpockets—particularly in the Historic District.
Also called the Praça dos Mártires, this landmark square dates from the 19th century. In 1824 many soldiers were executed here in the war for independence from the Portuguese crown. It has a central fountain and is full of century-old trees and statues of Greek deities. Look for the ancient baobab tree. Small stalls sell snacks and handicrafts and there is occasional live music.
Built by the Dutch in 1649, this fort was originally baptized Forte Schoonemborch. In 1655 it was seized by the Portuguese and renamed after the city's patron saint, Nossa Senhora da Assunção. It was rebuilt in 1817 and is now a military headquarters. The city took its name from this fortress (fortaleza), which still has the cell where the mother of one of Ceará's most famous writers, José de Alencar, was jailed. Guided tours are led by the soldiers themselves, although few speak English.
Hands-down the city's best beach for swimming, this long curve of golden sand lines the only part of Fortaleza's sea regularly clean enough to take a dip. Framing the beach are mega-barracas, sophisticated beach clubs that have restaurants, bathrooms, bars, and even swimming pools with slides for kids. The regular waves attract local surfers. If returning after dark, it is best to take a taxi (approximately R$25 to Praia dos Mereilles). Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (fee); showers; toilets. Best for: partiers; surfing; swimming; walking.
