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Churrasco (slow-grilled and -roasted meat), one of the most famous foods of Brazil, originated in Rio Grande do Sul. But the cuisine is eclectic here in cowboy country, and rice and beans sit on southern tables beside Italian and German dishes, thanks to the South's many European immigrants. Look for barreado, a dish from coastal Paraná made by stewing beef, bacon, potatoes, and spices for hours in a clay pot made airtight with moistened manioc flour. Café colonial is the elaborate 5 pm tea—with breads, pies, and German kuchen—popular among the Germans in the South.
Porto Alegre's best-known restaurant has been in business at the same spot, steps from city hall at the Mercado Público, since 1889. The walls are covered with Portuguese tiles, antiques, and period photographs exalting those early days. The restaurant is a popular happy-hour spot for politicians and businesspeople. The menu varies daily from beef to fish dishes. One of the highlights is the large Brazilian grey mullet stuffed with shrimp (served Friday and Saturday).
The city's finest and largest churrascaria does a killer rodizio (all-you-can-eat meat buffet). The picanha (beef rump cap) stands out among the dozens of meat choices, but pork, lamb, and chicken find their way onto the metal skewers they use to grill the meat. Never fear, vegetarians—the salad bar is also well stocked. The dining room is bright and cheerful, and bow-tied waiters serve your food.
This small, family-run, buffet-style restaurant specializes in the traditional dish most associated with Paraná State: the barreado (meat stew simmered in a sealed clay pot). Because barreado takes 24 hours to cook, you must order it a day in advance. The prix-fixe menu includes galinha na púcara (chicken cooked in wine, tomato, and bacon sauce), several salads, and cachaças(Brazilian liquor distilled from sugarcane). Although the restaurant is officially open only on weekends, you can call ahead to arrange a dinner during the week.
This churrascaria in a picturesque wooden bungalow is your best bet for experiencing the ubiquitous southern Brazilian espeto-corrido (a continuous service of grilled meats). They also serve a fixed-price buffet with less advertised gaúcho dishes such as arroz de carreteiro (rice with dried beef), farofa (sautéed cassava flour), and cooked cassava. Traditional-music performances take place on Friday and Saturday.
One of Porto Alegre's largest churrascarias, Galpão Crioulo serves traditional espeto-corrido—a prix-fixe, never-ending rotation of tender roasted and grilled meats brought to the table, accompanied by a salad buffet. If a full espeto-corrido sounds too much, ask for the miniespeto (a small sampler skewer of all meats). Another option is the comidas campeiras (countryside food) buffet, with plenty of dishes featuring rice, beans, and squash. You can also try chimarrão (a maté tea) at a tasting booth where the staff demonstrates the traditional way to drink it. Gaúcho musical performances take place in the evening.
If you're not traveling as far as Salvador and the state of Bahia, you can at least check out its flavors at this busy restaurant. It specializes in northeastern fare like moqueca (a rich seafood stew made with coconut milk and palm oil). The version here is unusual for mixing prawns with local river fish. Spicy pan-fried sole and salmon are lighter options. The flavors aren't quite so subtle at the all-you-can-eat seafood buffets served several times a week. At R$80, it certainly pulls in crowds.
