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Lively bistros and daring contemporary restaurants bring unexpected exuberance to the otherwise sedate streets around the Eiffel Tower. Because money is rarely an object in this area, you can find everything from top-notch contemporary restaurants that draw foodies to nostalgic bistros that appeal to aristocratic residents with comfort-food cravings.
It's hard to say if this bright, congenial café on a quiet street a few blocks from the Champs de Mars feels more like a neighborhood fixture or a chic wine-centric bistro. Scrumptious fare focuses on crowd-pleasing dishes like delicate pumpkin beignets; roast pork with sweet potatoes and arugula, pear, and hazelnut salad; or a juicy bacon burger. Live jazz on Saturday draws a fun Parisian crowd, and the wraparound sidewalk terrace is lovely in warm weather.
The otherwise unexciting 15e arrondissement is home to much-lauded chef Ludivine Merlin and her Basque-inspired recipes. Basque cooking is known for its bold flavors and generosity, and the choices at Afaria are no exception. Crisp-skinned duck breast with balsamic-fig vinegar (for two) is served dramatically, inside a ceramic roof tile, with the accompanying potato gratin perched on a bed of twigs. Big chunks of spoon-tender, slow-cooked pork from Gascony come in an earthenware dish with cubes of roasted celery root. Tapas are served at a high table near the entrance, and there's a large-screen TV for rugby matches.
Come for the early sitting at this buzzing bistro (reservations are essential) specializing in solid French "bistronomic" fare and you'll often discover the dining room filled with more than a few tourists—the waiters speak English perfectly. The dining room excels in such French comfort foods as leg of lamb, warm Puy lentil salad, roasted quail, and a scintillating rum-soaked baba au rhum, not to mention the namesake dish of velvety bone marrow. Service can be brusque, with waiters plunking even the higher-priced bottles of wine on the table without waiting for the customer to swill and slurp. Still, these problems seem to be minor, judging by the ever-crowded tables. The restaurant's popular wine bar, La Cave de l'Os à Moelle, across the street on Rue de Lourmel, serves a bargain prix-fixe menu for €31.
From a wine-soaked boeuf bourguignon and garlicky snails to tasty slabs of homemade country pâté served with cornichons and a hearty red, this Art Nouveau–era bistro offers all the classics of southwestern France. Check the blackboard menu for the daily specials, delivered in generous portions.
A quiet residential street shelters one of Paris's great neighborhood bistros, which retains its moleskin banquettes, blackboard menus, and small wooden tables where you'll touch elbows with your neighbors. Expect fresh market ingredients in a gastronomic menu that's liberal with deluxe details. A typical meal might include vegetable soup with foie gras and cream, truffle tagliatelles, panfried scallops in crab sauce or axoa de veau (a Basque veal sauté), and a vanilla soufflé with cherry jam. All this plus a great choice of wines by the glass keep happy regulars filling the dining room. Prix-fixe menus start at €32 at lunch.
