Géméllus
Elegant and relaxed don’t usually come together so seamlessly in this upscale neighborhood, but this beautiful, cozy dining room—luminous in the daytime and romantic at night—is the perfect setting for a meal that’s ambitious without being pretentious or fussy. Chef Maxime Le Meur, finally on his own after stints in top Parisian kitchens, crafts beautiful dishes with surprising pairings that combine meat and fish, but can be tailored to your desires: tuna ceviche and foie gras with apple, grapefruit, and a vibrant watercress sauce; or velvety veal on a bed of salsify with sweet burnt onion and shaved black truffle. For dessert, the signature chocolate soufflé and Paris Brest are not to be missed. Prices for this quality, especially in this neighborhood, are exceedingly gentle (€90 for 5-course menu, €140 with five wine pairings; 7-course menu €110, €180 with wines). Dining outside on the sidewalk terrace is a delight in summer.